By The Foodies
Brunch at Prime is just like anything the Bohlsen brothers do at their array of dazzling restaurants. Regardless of the hour, the experience – from atmosphere to service and, most of all, cuisine – is first-class.
The normally ultra-swank trappings of Prime’s grand dining room take on a more homey, subdued feel at brunch time, especially if you’re snuggled up in one of the many plush booth seats.
Don’t let that fool you, though – the urbane cool remains as a swingin’ three-piece jazz band of keyboards, bass and drums performs by the bar. And, of course, the cuisine is ambitious as ever – the chocolate-infused bread and citrusy corn bread, paired with apricot jam and butter – should be your first hint.
A quick jaunt through the brunch menu reveals a recurring theme – classics juxtaposed with versions bearing the extra Prime pizzazz, elegant salads, opulent sushi selections and raw bar choices. Want to split one of Teller’s famous porterhouses ($98)? No problem – Teller’s steaks are all available, making for a most enticing mid-day selection indeed.
We stuck to more traditional brunch fare during our visit, which included a starter of caramelized figs ($15). Finished in a sugar topping of a brulee-like crisp, the semisweet, tender figs paired perfectly with shaved prosciutto, rich crumples of goat cheese, micro greens and a drizzle.
For a main course, we were faced with that choice again – tradition, or a little something extra? We chose the latter, opting for elegant Prime Benedict ($27), a luxe spin on the traditional Eggs Benedict ($18) of Canadian bacon, poached eggs and Hollandaise. In Prime’s iteration, lump crab, fried green tomatoes and poached eggs are piled delicately atop an English muffin and crowned in lemony Hollandaise, making for a lighter, sophisticated spin on tradition.
Patio seating is still limited to the covered, heating portions, but expect the seating with a grand view of Huntington Harbor to open up considerably once the snow melts and the mercury rises. Even if there’s a bit of chill in the air, you won’t feel it because of those famous, strategically deployed space heaters everybody raves about.
But, for the meantime, there’s plenty inside for which to dine, dance and delight.