By Danny & the Foodies
Sometimes, beautiful things emerge from wreckage. One of those things is Huntington village’s Red restaurant.
Nino Antuzzi’s New American, organic-fixated restaurant, which opened in November 2000, abruptly closed almost a year ago after a devastating fire next door at 425 New York Ave. caused smoke and water damaged to the restaurant.
But Antuzzi took it in stride; it was an opportunity to push renovation plans along.
Nine and a half months later, Red, one of three Antuzzi restaurants in Huntington village, reopened its doors on Dec. 16, fully renovated. A fourth restaurant for Antuzzi, a juice bar on Main Street, is also in the works.
Attention to detail is central to the dining experience at Red. The trappings are wrapped in earth hues and plenty of red accents pop from the chairs and walls.
A stately, climate-controlled wine rack is a homey centerpiece of the spacious, warm dining room. From the selection of small-reserve liquors and reserve wines, to the tableside delivery by a basket of raisin rum, rosemary and ciabatta breads, nothing is overlooked. Red’s from-scratch kitchen exclusively features organic produce, small farm organic and/or pasture-raised meats, hand-selected wild and/or sustainable seafood and artisan specialty ingredients.
Briefly stated, you’re in for a treat.
We started with the soup of the day, an earthy parsnip puree ($10), perfectly complemented by house-cured julienned salmon and a dollop of sour cream and diced chives. Crab Napoleon ($14) is just like the classic Italian pastry, but with savories. Smooth as silk in texture and flavor, the medley of Maryland crab salad between layers of paper-thin feuille de bricke and avocado mousse meld effortlessly.
Cauliflower Salad ($12) boasts a unique and enticing medley of award-winning Valley Thunder cheddar, tender, organic roasted cauliflower, raw Brussels sprout leaves, dried cranberry and pumpkin seeds tossed in a honey-citrus vinaigrette.
Craving pasta? Keep an eye out for the risotto of the day. Fettuccine, cavatelli and spinach and ricotta ravioli are each $13 for an appetizer size, and $24 for the full portion. Cavatelli, paired with a savory filet mignon Bolognese, is a hearty classic. The ravioli, topped with pancetta, sage and brown butter, is decadent, especially when crowned with Parmesan.
Entrees mix adventure and tradition. A Different Surf & Turf ($29), likened by the restaurant manager, Kelly Danek, to a “deconstructed bacon-wrapped scallop,” is deliciously detailed. Scallops come atop fluffy, airy cauliflower puree, and braised Berkshire pork belly, quickly pan-finished before serving, is crisp on the outside and tender elsewhere. The pork belly is served atop hot-and-sweet chopped squash and apple chutney.
Meanwhile, the organic filet mignon ($40), a pairing of succulent beef and balsamic caramelized onions, served with asparagus and silky garlic mashed potatoes, is a timeless classic perfected.
For a new twist on a classic finisher, check out raspberry tiramisu ($10), which uses rum to create a light, gently sweet-and-tart way to bid adieu to your night and hello to many more years of making new memories.
417 New York Ave., Huntington village
Atmosphere: Classy, Inviting
Cuisine: Organic New American
Hours: 5-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 5-11 p.m. Fri.-Sat.; 5-9 p.m. Sun.