By Jano Tantongco
Nisen Sushi serves up traditional Japanese favorites and packs bold, creative flavors into each and every roll their kitchen serves up.
The restaurant features a sleek, yet classic interior, courtesy of Horst Design International, combining traditional Japanese elements with an upscale, city-like collection of adornments and lights.
Tom Lam has owned the restaurant since 2000. It was originally located in East Northport, and moved to Commack in 2003.
Lam himself was once a sushi chef, serving up rolled delights in Manhattan. Now, he’s taken his years of experience to create dishes that add a new spin to the centuries-old art form of sushi crafting.
“We are very different,” Lam said. “I keep finding something new and exciting. You never know if it’s a success or not, but you always keep trying.”
Nisen’s Crispy Rice Spicy Tuna ($14) offers up jalapeno, black caviar, spicy cream aioli on a bed of crispy rice that is an intriguing interweaving of textures that combine the soft, almost creamy tuna with a crunchy base. The thin shreds of seaweed on top maximize the surface area of their flavor, adding a unique taste in each bite.
For a smoky sensation, try the White Tuna Truffle ($14) topped with a truffle peeling and yuzu soy sauce. The lightly seared fish packed with a robust, barbeque-like taste. It’s balanced by a side of Japanese mountain plums and cucumber slices that add a springy finish to the appetizer.
The King Salmon Nashi ($18) comprises of King Salmon delicately wrapped around Asian pear, topped with truffle salt, dried miso, yuzu citrus sauce. The wild salmon is tender and easily falls apart with a bite, with an added, crispy crunch from the pear.
The 2016 Volcano Roll ($20) is a medley of warm, bold flavors featuring coconut shrimp, mango, molten kani crab, diver sea scallops, mango coulis and wasabi aioli. The coconut flavor is truly enhanced by the mango, erupting with nutty and sweet undertones.
For a meal in a roll, be sure to order the Surf & Turf Roll ($30) filled with Maine lobster, asparagus, wagyu beef on top and truffle soy sauce, served up on a banana leaf. The beef was tender and succulent, paired with a hearty and textured lobster. The powerful asparagus flavor helps unite the two, making the entree a roll that won’t be forgotten.
Cajun Filet Mignon ($32) puts a spiced twist on an upscale classic. The filet has a slender layer of crispiness, with a juicy center accentuated by Japanese seven-spice sauce that’s both buttery and aromatic. A mix of mushrooms add a woody, earthy flavor to the dish.
To wrap up the meal, the Funnel Cake Oreo ($10) is made of Oreos baked into funnel cake bites, providing soft, decadent treats. Coupled with Tahitian vanilla ice cream and thin strawberry slices, uniting them in a spoonful juxtaposes hot and cold, creamy and fluffy all in one.
Nisen also provides on- and off-premises catering. Call 855-647-3622 or visit nisencatering.com.
5032 Jericho TPke, Commack
Cuisine: Modern Japanese
Atmosphere: Upscale and Trendy
Lunch Hours: Monday-Friday, noon-3 p.m.
Dinner Hours: Monday-Wednesday, 5-10 p.m.;Thursday-Saturday 5-11 p.m.; Sunday: 5-9:30 p.m.