FOODIE
Clubhouse Celebrates 45 Years
By Luann & Richard / foodie@longislandernews.com

In Long Island’s ever-popular, and ever-changing, restaurant capital of Huntington, a restaurant has to be pretty special to stand the test of time. The Clubhouse steakhouse is just that, with a history few can compete with and a culinary expertise above and beyond that of a typical steakhouse.

Situated on Jericho Turnpike just west of Route 110, the “place for steak” celebrated its 45th anniversary this past fall. Geraldine Bies and her late husband John established The Clubhouse in 1962 and it is now managed by their son Jeffrey, who took over in 1982, and his wife Cassandra. Mama Geraldine, now 92, still has stake in the restaurant; she keeps the payroll.

The class and quality of The Clubhouse is no secret to longtime Huntington residents. From the outside, it would be easy to think that The Clubhouse, renovated four years ago, is just like any other local steakhouse, with its neon sign and bull faced logo in front of a simple brown building.

But what awaits you inside is a memorable experience that combines white linen tablecloths and candle-lit dining with a warm, cozy and intimate atmosphere where you can order anything from $36 veal chop to a $14 burger – and both will have your taste buds dancing. The restaurant has even been recognized for its extensive wine list with awards from both Wine Enthusiast Magazine and Wine Spectator magazine.

When you are seated at your table, a server takes your drink order, giving you time to relax and take in the cozy ambiance. The crème colored walls with dark wood paneling beg to tell the story of the restaurant’s history through vintage black and white photos of classic establishments of old Huntington. A look around will show you that the dining area seats about 66 and the mirrored bar area about 10.

You are then given the menu and read the specials, all products of talented Chef Charlie Labartino, who has been with the restaurant since 1994. The Culinary Institute of America graduate, who has polished his craft at restaurants from Nantucket to Manhattan, shows a tremendous attention to presentation and even uses ingredients grown from his own garden in the dishes.

We woke our palates with a refreshing appetizer of white asparagus, crisp and cold, wrapped in prosciutto di parma and roasted red peppers and topped with grated ricotta salata and a drizzled balsamic glaze ($10). The garlic bread ($4), toasted semolina with just the right touch of garlic butter topped with creamy melted mozzarella cheese, is a crowd pleaser, as is the tender escargot ($10) in garlic gorgonzola and herb butter.

Seafood appetizers are elegant and impressive. Jumbo sea scallops wrapped in bacon and glazed with a Grand Marnier molasses with a polenta medallion ($12) were cooked to perfection and the sweetness of the glaze and the salty hint of the bacon complement each other well. The spice to the fresh, seared sesame and ginger crusted yellowtail tuna ($12) hits you immediately and is served with a cooling wakame seaweed salad. Jumbo shrimp ($14) are fresh and sizeable, presented in a martini glass.

Tender clams come whole and practically slide right off the half-shell. The clams casino ($15 for a dozen) come plump and tender as do clams posillipo, served in a light and sweet white wine sauce. Be sure to save some bread because you’ll want to sop up every last drop.

And when the cold weather really hits, Charlie’s creamy and hearty lobster bisque ($9) is sure to warm you right up and invoke an immediate sense of calm and happiness as only homemade soup from scratch can do.

Salads are cool and refreshing. Crisp hearts of romaine with homemade blue cheese dressing and roasted red peppers ($8) is a good choice, though we also enjoyed the pink peppercorn vinaigrette of the mescaline salad with candied walnuts and gorgonzola cheese ($9).

And, of course, steak at the steakhouse is a must. All beef is cut and aged on premises. We loved the flavorful tang of a T-bone steak marinated in Charlie’s special Cowboy marinade of spicy tequila and lime ($34). The Clubhouse’s signature charbroiled filet mignon is so tender and juicy that no seasoning is even needed, but it comes with an exquisite and delicate Béarnaise sauce ($36).

The swordfish ($28) is a standout dish. Juicy and ginger crusted, it is seared to lock in the fresh and dulcet ginger flavor. The meat of the Maine lobster tails ($48) is sweet and firm, broiled and served with drawn butter. A roasted half duckling with wild blueberry glaze ($28) is also an excellent choice. Crispy on the outside and tender on the inside, the meat falls right off the bone.

Even the side dishes are luscious. The Clubhouse’s onion rings are thin, crispy and delicious ($6) and creamed spinach ($6) with a hint of nutmeg and bacon brings smiles to the table. Served alongside the entrees, the Indian rice blend with barley is a nice change of pace from typical rice side dishes.

Any Clubhouse dessert would make for a heavenly end to an outrageous meal as almost all are made in-house. The pecan pie is even made by Mama Geraldine herself.
The Clubhouse is more than just a place for steak. It’s a place for family, a place of excellence and a place rooted in tradition and community. We hope it’s around for at least another 45 wonderful years.

The Clubhouse
320 West Jericho Turnpike
Huntington
631-423-1155
www.clubhousesteaks.com

Cuisine: Steak and seafood specialties
and other continental fare
Atmosphere: Cozy, warm, intimate
Price Range: Moderate to expensive
Hours: Lunch: Monday-Friday 11:45 a.m.-4 p.m.
Dinner: Sunday through Thursday 4 p.m.-10 p.m.,
Friday 4 p.m.-11 p.m., Saturday 5 p.m.-11 p.m.



Main Menu