| FOODIE
Toast And Co. Has Universal Appeal
By Pete & Will / foodie@longislandernews.com
Who doesn’t like toast? Practically no one. As the sole
component of a breakfast on the run, a means to sop up runny
egg yolks or the basis of a favorite sandwich, toast is almost
universally loved.
Perhaps that’s the reasoning behind the name of Huntington’s
hottest breakfast and lunch spot, Toast and Co., which opened
in October on Stewart Avenue at the place left vacant when
Pomodoro moved to larger quarters a few blocks away. With
its chrome accents and a row of diner stools along the northernmost
wall, Toast & Co. has a retro look that evokes the diners
where today’s baby boomers munched on burgers and fries
in their youth. A snappy color scheme of green with an orange
shade just past creamsicle, lends a contemporary feel with
out sacrificing the playfulness or nostalgic intent.
The newest creation of Fabio Machado’s Restar restaurant
group, Toast & Co. extends the dining empire’s reach
to another meal – breakfast – and gives lunch-seekers
an option just slightly less committal than a full restaurant
lunch. White cloth napkins and a creative approach to comfort
food bring Toast and Co. several notches above diner, as does
the quality of the ingredients. Even with the basics –
two eggs any style ($6), seem firmer, sausage plumper, and
bacon is closer to a slab than a sliver.
There are a half dozen egg selections on the breakfast menu.
The playfully named Green Eggs and Ham ($9) pairs eggs with
prosciutto and an avocado mousse. From South of the border,
Huevos Rancheros ($9) serves them up on corn tortillas with
refried beans and red and green salsas. A version of the staple
of America’s heartland – sausage biscuit –
puts eggs on a tasty scallion biscuit with pan gravy and sausage.
Omelettes are hearty constructions ($7), served with toast
and home fries, and customized with a choice of cheeses, meats
and vegetables (50¢-$1 additional). The favorite so far
included blue cheese and grilled vegetables.
On the other side of the griddle, Buttermilk pancakes ($7.50)
and French Toast (called Texas Toast here) are served with
Vermont Maple Syrup; a thick Belgian Waffle ($8) comes with
berry compote.
Bananas Foster Pancakes with walnuts ($8) or French Toast
stuffed with blueberry cream cheese ($7.50) offer variations
on the classics, or add blueberry, strawberry, banana or raspberry
toppings to create your own. For the lunch crowd, burgers
($9) are likewise customizable – again, we loved the
blue cheese – and there’s a variety of salads
ranging from $9 to $12.
The BLT ($7.50) shines because of the bacon. We were intrigued
by – but haven’t tried – the Roasted Root
Vegetable sandwich ($8.50), which puts shallots, parsnips,
carmelized onions and carrots between slabs of bread.
Speaking of bread, the half dozen varieties are thick cut
and fresh-baked. Go for the seven-grain.
Down the road, expect Toast and Co. to take on the dinner
hour (bar service is already in place). For now, the 40-plus
seats are often filled on weekends and staff is still finding
their sea legs, so to speak. Be prepared to wait a few minutes
at peak times, but don’t worry about leaving hungry.
Like its namesake, Toast and Co. satisfies.
Toast
and Co.
62 Stewart Avenue, Huntington
631-812-0056
Atmosphere: Bustling and contemporary with
a retro feel
Cuisine: Comfort food with flair
Price range: Inexpensive
Hours: 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., seven days
Review published:
12/20/07
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