FOODIE
Surprise Is The Word At Ay Caramba!
By Rosie, Pete and Will / foodies@longislandernews.com

A Spanish phrase that expresses surprise, Ay Caramba could well be the perfect name for the restaurant at the site of the former Viva Juan restaurant in Centerport. Since it was taken over by Mark and Marty Weiner – who most recently owned Northport’s Bayview Bistro – Ay Caramba is full of surprises.

Visitors to the restaurant overlooking Centerport’s Mill Pond are jolted into the realization that a different dining experience awaits when they enter into a carmine red lobby leading to a sunny yellow interior. The surprises continue on the menu where an international fusion approach spices up the somewhat sophisticated Mexican offerings. The owners call it “eclec-Mex,” with the explanation that it’s what sets Ay Caramba! apart from other Mexican restaurants.

“We can accommodate big parties and often get six, 10, 13 people who walk in. There’s always somebody who says, ‘I don’t want Mexican.’ They had it for lunch, they just had it yesterday,” said Mark. So the menu was expanded to include a number of other offerings. A brand new menu introduced at the end of November includes a wine-glazed rib eye steak, a stacked pork loin dish and red snapper dishes alongside the Mexican favorites.

The meal starts with a bowl of multi-colored tortillas and a spicy chipotle dip that keep the edge of your hunger while you peruse the menu. A mini menu on each table lists a selection of specialty drinks. Variations on the obligatory margarita ($8-10) include the frozen margarita, an enticing pomegranate margarita and the premium margarita with Cuervo.

We started with the Savory Mexican Corn Soup ($6), a thick, tummy-warmer that will take the chill off of a cold winter day.

Appetizers lean toward Mexican specialties but the global influence is at work as well. Guacamole ($9) is fresh made and as good as any, and Mexican Corn ($3) is a treat of sweet corn on the cob, grilled, brushed with mayo and fire-finished with a torch before a final sprinkle of Mexican cheese, queso fresco. This sweet starter went like candy at our table.

Another house specialty and a favorite among regulars are Caramba Kisses ($6), a trio of jumbo shrimp stuffed with jalapeno peppers and wrapped in bacon. The bacon brings a smoky flavor, the peppers have heat. Heat seekers will also enjoy the Duck Wontons ($10), crispy fried wontons with a spicy filling and a chili-spiced, sweet dipping sauce. And sure to become a best seller, the Kobe Duo ($12) is a pair of kobe beef burgers, grilled to order and topped with cheese on a mini-bun. In the increasingly popular world of sliders and mini-burgers, these are standouts.

More than two dozen entrees include the Mexican standards: Fajita platters ($19-21) for chicken, steak or shrimp lovers — or the house specialty, Tuna Fajitas with pineapple — are served still sizzling with sauteed onions, peppers, pico de gallo , sour cream and guacamole; Tacos ($14) filled with beef, chicken, duck or fish; Chimichanga Caramba ($18), with shrimp, spinach, cheese, guacamole and sour cream and the Caramba Special ($22), skirt steak with sautéed chicken and shrimp, tampiquena sauce and a tortilla basket.

The non-Mexican offerings have been expanded with the new menu. Chef Maureen O’Neill, brought from Northport’s famed Maroni’s, has replaced the filet mignon with a wine-glazed Rib Eye Steak ($26), cooked to order and served with chorizo mashed potatoes. Grilled Pork Loin ($19) shows off the restaurant’s ability to add a Mexican twist to an American standard. A premium cut of pork loin is served amid a tower of sweet Yucca fries and the some of the better onion rings we’ve ever had. The hot-and-sweet of the honey glaze complements the pork beautifully.

Given the restaurant’s spectacular view of Mill Pond, many diners get a hankering for seafood, and Ay Caramba offers several selections from Grande Seared Sea Scallions ($22) with roast corn and tomato salsa; and a simple Red Snapper ($22) with tomato, onion and cilantro salsa. But the star on our visit was the Mariscada, a gumbo-like seafood stew with tender calamari, tiny, sweet scallops, mussels, clams, shrimp and a half lobster tail in a spicy, green tomatillo sauce. It’s a satisfying way to enjoy a sampling of seafood.

We followed up with coffee and desserts. The firm, custardy Flan is not too sweet and an Apple Empanada with vanilla ice cream gave a Mexican twist to an all American ingredient list.

The fusion menu is a result of Mark and Marty’s years in the restaurant business. Mark describes himself as the visionary and the schmoozer whose job it is to work the room, greet customers and make them feel comfortable. His 45 years in the business include nine years as a manager for New York City’s Regine, and a stint running the dining room at Leona Helmsley’s Park Plaza hotel.

“I just believe in good food,” said Mark.
He’s also a restless and impulsive soul, so we expect the pleasant surprises will continue at Ay Caramba!

Ay Caramba
441 Route 25A, Centerport
631-261-2828
www.iCarambaRestaurant.com

Atmosphere: Bright, cheery and casual with a waterview.
Karaoke on weekends.
Cuisine: Eclec-Mex fusion
Price range: Moderate
Hours: Open seven days for
lunch and dinner from 11:30 a.m.

Main Menu