FOODIE
Call It ‘Gree-talian’
By Pete & Paul / foodies@longislandernews.com

Though their bloodline traces to Lebanon, Cynthia and Charles Zaro were raised in a multi-generational household with Greek and Italian grandmothers. When their mother, Sue Zaro, fulfilled a lifelong dream by opening a family style restaurant, Cynthia and Charlie joined the team, and 15 years later, their own children can be found in the kitchen and working the counter at Zaro’s Café on Jericho Turnpike.

We joked about making up a new classification for the restaurant – Gree-talian – but that wouldn’t do the cooking justice. There’s no meld of the two Mediterranean countries; rather, both are represented by a kitchen that handles pasta and parmigiana as skillfully as it does phyllo dough.

Located in a strip mall, the restaurant’s dozen or so tables seat 50, give or take, and at peak hours you may find them filled. Don’t let the plastic clothed tables and paper napkins fool you. The food – particularly items from the specials board – is as good as any fine Greek or Italian restaurant. But part of being a family restaurant is keeping prices low, said Cynthia. Her mother Sue’s dream was to make a place where families would be comfortable. It’s about good food at affordable prices, and feeling like you’re at home, she says.

Our meal started on the Greek side of the extensive menu with a sampling of dips with house made pita chips. Hummus is velvety smooth and not too garlicky; Baba Ghanouj is a traditional blend of eggplant with tahini, lemon, olive oil and garlic; and Taramosalata, a briny, sweetish bend of whipped olive oil, lemon, salt and carp caviar.

Other Greek specialties on the must-try list are the Spanakopita ($4.75), with a dense filling of spinach and feta cheese in flaky phyllo dough, and the Dolma Dakia ($7.25), grape leaves stuffed with rice and herbs. Zaro’s version has a slight tang and the rice filling is firm — not the soggy version that’s too common elsewhere. Like everything at Zaro’s, the specialties are fresh made on premises.

There are Italian appetizers as well, including Baked Clams Oreganate ($6.95) – a generous half dozen, and a tender version of Fried Calamari ($8.50) with dipping sauce and lemon we’ll go back to try.

Zaro’s has an extensive salad selection, but first timers will want to start with the fresh Greek Salad ($5.75 small, $8 large), with fresh chopped romaine, red onion, olives, grape leaves and feta.

Entrees at Zaro’s include the usual Greek specialty platters: sliced Gyro ($11.95), Chicken, Pork, Lamb or Veal Souvlaki ($11.95 to $13.95), Falafel ($11.95) and Shrimp Kebob ($13.95) are worth ordering if only for the housemade yogurt sauce, a cool blend of yogurt and spices with a hint of lemon made from an ancient family recipe.

Our favorite by far was the chicken souvlaki, marinated in another old family recipe.
From the Italian side, we tried an old standby, lemony Francaise ($12.95). Again, the tender chicken was complemented – not overpowered – thanks to a light touch on the seasonings. Other options include Chicken Florentine ($12.95) with spinach and mozzarella; Chicken Alla Zaro’s ($12.95) with vegetables; and Chicken Scallopine Marsala ($12.95); and numerous Italian specialties: Veal Piccata, Shrimp Francaise, Eggplant Rollatine ranging from $11.95 to $15.95. That top price was for the Seafood Fra Diavolo, which we enjoyed on our recent visit. Shrimp, clams, mussels and a particularly tender calamari are cooked in a light and spicy plum tomato sauce over linguini.

There are also pasta dishes galore, heroes and pizza… virtually something for everyone. And don’t skip dessert. Zaro’s offers preium Gelatos ($4), Tiramisu ($4), cakes and puddings. But you must try the Greek Baklava ($2.75), flaky phyllo stuffed with seasoned chopped walnuts or, in the Lebanese tradition that Cynthia favors, pistachio nuts. Flavored with rosewater and sweetened with just a drizzle of honey, it’s a not-too-sweet and a delightful way to end your meal.

Good food, great prices and a comfortable atmosphere will have you coming back to Zaro’s Café. Tell them the Foodies sent you.

Zaro’s Café
135-6 W. Jericho Turnpike
Huntington Station
631-271-4400

Atmosphere: Value–priced and casual for family dining

Cuisine: Greek and Italian specialties

Price range: Inexpensive

Hours: Tues-Sat, 11 a.m-10 p.m. Sun, 3:30 p.m.-9 p.m.

Main Menu