|  FOODIE
Piccolo: World Class Dining Close To Home
By Pete & Karen / foodie@longislandernews.com
World class dining in an atmosphere of candlelight, mahogany
and mirrors. Sounds like the perfect place for a romantic
dinner for two… and it is. Piccolo, though, is so much
more, and it seems that much of Huntington is already in on
the secret.
Piccolo is the flagship of three dining spots owned by restaurateur
Dean Philippis, and easily the most elegant. Since opening
Piccolo at the site of the former Great Dane restaurant 20
years ago, Philippis has since bought the Mill Pond House
in Centerport and Sweet Mama’s, a casual breakfast-through-late
night spot for home style cooking in Northport. Tucked in
the Southdown shopping center on north Wall Street in Huntington,
Piccolo’s dark woods, trompe l’oeil murals and
crisp white linens lend an immediate atmosphere of class and
coziness. There’s a reason the dining room has so many
tables for two. Yet a lack of haughtiness and world class
cooking – yes, we did say world class – have made
Piccolo a favorite place for families and friends to gather.
The menu starts Italian – but goes wherever the chef’s
market-driven fancy takes him. But mostly it’s customer
driven, Philippis says, and comfort-seeking regulars are often
likely to order a simple platter of the housemade linguine
with a marinara sauce and a $250 bottle of wine to go with
it, while his dining companion tries something more adventuresome.
On our recent visit, we took plenty of time to look over the
menu – including a lengthy list of specials recited
by our server. A hallmark of Piccolo, the service staff are
all experienced with some there as long as Dean has owned
the place. Neftali was attentive and cheerful, while Georgi
charmed us with his humor. He trilled his way through the
specials, rrrrrrolling his ‘R’s with such skill,
we made him repeat the “Rrrrrroast duckling with rrrrraspberry
sauce,” just to hear him do it again.
So varied were the choices, we polished off most of a basket
of crusty bread — with extra virgin olive oil for dipping
— before ordering, and then went with the house suggestions.
We started with the Montauk Diver Sea Scallops ($13) baked
in a white wine and butter sauce. The sweet tender scallops
were brined with a touch of caviar and served with artichoke
hearts and microgreens. Elegantly resented in a large scallop
shell, they earn an extra star for presentation. Arugula salad
with dried cranberries, pungent blue cheese, pignoli nuts
and crispy wontons ($12) was refreshing, with an Asian tang.
Baked clams oreganata or casino ($10) – fresh and plump
– are capably handled at Piccolo. Next trip back we’re
going for the Mission Figs and Goat Cheese ($13) with prosciutto
and melon, and Fried Calamari Fra Diavolo ($13). And if we
ever win Lotto, we’ll let you know how that $135 an
ounce Osetra Caviar is.
Pasta dishes encompass a range and after sampling two, we
understand that linguini marinara with the $250 wine order.
Linguine alle Vongole ($20) – Littleneck clams, white
wine, garlic and olive oil – is light, fresh and simple.
It contrasted with the soulful, earthy flavors of the Braised
Short Rib Cannelloni ($24), a deeply textured cannelloni stuffed
with slow cooked beef, peas and mushrooms and topped with
a truffle cream sauce.
Main courses are an equally rich adventure. We’re told
that duckling – twice roasted and served with raspberry
sauce ($26) is a house specialty, as is anything seafood.
A thick cut of Chilean Sea Bass ($28) from the specials list
was a vibrantly colored presentation with deep green baby
spinach, red dried tomatoes, and long-stemmed artichoke that
tasted every bit as good as it looked.
Also recommended, Pork Chop Milanese ($24), a variation on
the veal favorite with chopped arugula, tomato, artichoke
hearts and capers; Salmon Filet ($28) with a lump crabmeat
crust; and Shrimp Piccolo ($28), jumbo shrimp with artichoke
hearts, because one can never go wrong when the house puts
its name on a dish.
Throughout the parade of food, service was attentive, though
not obtrusive, and despite the inherent class of the establishment,
was friendly and familiar in all the right places. Piano accompaniment
from the lounge area was a delightful addition, as was the
company. At adjacent tables sat a well known orthopedist and
his wife, and at another, a Supreme Court Judge. Conversation
went back and forth between our three tables, as did a portion
of out dessert, a rich, flourless chocolate cake and a tummy
warming Banana Bread Pudding.
The familiarity of the faces, the servers and the surroundings
work in Piccolo’s favor. We felt welcomed by all.
Piccolo
Restaurant of Huntington
215 Wall Street, Huntington
631-424-5592
www.piccolorestaurant.net
Atmosphere: Elegant and romantic, yet comfortable
Cuisine: Creative New American
Price Range: Expensive
Hours:
Dinner: Sunday: 4-10 pm, Monday-Thursday: 5-10 pm,
Friday - Saturday: 5-11 pm
Main Menu
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