Umberto’s: A Step Beyond Pizza
By Pete & Rosie/
Don’t let the name Umberto’s
fool you. Umberto’s of East Main Street, located in
a hilltop shopping center just west of Huntington Bay Road,
is about more than pizza. After expansion and renovation just
a few years ago, Umberto’s is earning a reputation for
its kitchen, which puts out a full menu of Italian specialties.
Beyond a busy pizza counter where Umberto’s famous pies
are on display, Tuscan-inspired yellow plaster walls and architectural
moldings in dark wood create a comfortable dining room.
The menu, while not ambitious, covers a surprising amount
of ground and for our taste, shone strongest in the seafood
We started with salads. Caesar ($8.95) was a crisp and competent
rendition of the classic topped with a shaving of nutty parmesan,
but Insalata Umberto – mixed greens with sliced pear
and a fruity vinaigrette ($8.95) – won our taste buds
Pasta dishes are fresh made and cooked al dente. Our favorite
was the Fettuccini con Frutti Di Mare ($17.95), translating
literally to fruit of the sea, a generous serving of pasta
topped with scallops, shrimp, baby clams and mussels in a
tangy broth with fresh tomatoes and garlic. Though the menu
promised bay scallops, the sea scallops
were fine… and we were in it for the tiny briny clams
Baked ziti, though not on the menu, was happily prepared by
an accommodating chef.
The pasta was tasty, but the side of meatballs ($6) could
have been firmer. Ravioli Formaggio ($17.95) was a likewise
tasty plateful of fresh homemade cheese-filled ravioli in
a thick sauce.
From the entrée list, Pollo Milanese ($15) was a piccata-like
dish of chicken breast, breaded and fried, complemented by
chopped greens in vainaigrette.
We went with a representative selection of desserts (each
$6). While the tiramisu was wanting that espresso shot –
both for flavor and moisture, the Flourless Chocolate Cake
was rich and dense. Coffee was fresh and that no second cup
was offered was typical of the service that day. We’ve
had better on other visits. In fact, we’ve had many
terrific meals at Umberto’s, and will again.
Umberto’s Of East Main Street
138 E. Main Street Huntington
Atmosphere: Casual Italian.
Cuisine: Pizzas, pasta and Italian
Price: Inexpensive to moderate
Hours: Open seven days Lunch
Mon-Thurs, 11-10 Fri &
Sat, 11-11 Sun, 11-9