RED: “Striking Yet Simplistic”

By Andrea & Sara/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Whether you’re walking or driving past Red in Huntington village, it is hard to miss. The word Red appears twice; once as a brightly lit, nostalgic-looking sign, and again as the restaurant’s logo accompanied by three bold red circles. The six wall-sized windows are painted a shocking red and close to the ground are as many flower boxes overflowing with stunning flowers reminiscent of that which you would find in a carefully tended garden. The menu is displayed prominently yet modestly in a case to the building’s far right and it includes the announcement that the Secret Garden is available for outdoor dining—a garden filled with blossoms as enchanting as the restaurant itself!

The front door led us directly into the bar area and beyond that, we walked into the dining room where we immediately noticed that the foundation of the room’s décor are the three primary colors. Three walls are painted a rich, creamy yellow, while the wall separating the bar area from the dining room consists entirely of a red wine rack—impressively stocked—while the ceiling is deep blue dotted with recessed lighting that effectively conjures images of a star lit night.

In addition to the wine rack, there were abstract paintings, leafy wreaths like the ones that everyone’s grandmother loves, and plenty of fresh flowers. On every table there was a twinkling tea light, and a vase with two impeccable roses.

Restaurateur Nino Antuzzi—who also operates Osteria Da Nino on Main Street and is set to open the dessert specialty store Fiorello Dolce on Wall Street—serves as owner and Executive Chef and explained that his Italian background complements Chef de Cuisine Sebastien Chamaret’s impeccable French credentials. Nonetheless, from the first bite of our mouthwatering seared fresh sea scallops wrapped in prosciutto ($12) to our final forkful of luscious Bavarian crème ($10), our taste buds were charmed by unique flavor combinations unlike most fare found in traditional Italian or French restaurants.

We began our meal with trendy cocktails: the Hangar Mojito ($10) that nicely represents the summertime staple, and a Chocolate Mint Martini ($10) that Sara called a “thin mint for grownups.” The seared scallops were served atop a lightly fried medley of vegetables called a frittata primavera and were embellish with a delicious herb salad and basil emulsion.

After our appetizer, Chef Sebastian treated us to his imaginative version of the lobster roll. The distinctive taste of fresh lobster shone through a gentle coating of dressing and was layered on a fresh and crunchy cucumber-fava bean salad; crisp baby arugula and flavorful drizzling of dill sauce punctuated this summery dish.

We took some time ordering our main courses; the ample menu is stocked with delicious sounding options like the Blossom of Wild King Salmon Filet ($26), Grilled Black Angus Shell Steak ($33), and the option of a delicate risotto that changes daily. Additionally, our server Benny knowledgably listed the specials which included a swordfish ($28).

Opting for the Pan Seared Yellowfin Tuna ($27) off the regular menu, and the Stuffed Veal Chop ($40) special, we were pleasantly surprised by the hearty portions. The sushi grade tuna was prepared rare and served with jasmine rice and avocado mango salsa. Both of us are fans of tuna but while only one of us indulges in sushi, the other was floored by the refreshing texture of the seared fish. A wasabi dipping sauce added to the meal and the jasmine rice provided a flowery taste that enhanced the richness of the tuna.

The veal chop was lightly breaded and generously stuffed with baby spinach and smoked mozzarella. The wild mushroom-black truffle ragout, and classic mashed potatoes contributed to this full-bodied dish. In keeping with the fusion of tradition and contemporary, the veal chop was a hearty yet still sophisticated meal, while the tuna represented a much trendier option.

We recommend that diners take advantage of General Manager and Wine Director Kelly Danek’s expansive knowledge of Red’s wine list. With the veal, Danek recommended a 2004 Chardonnay from the Heggies vineyard in Margaret River, Australia and with the tuna she suggested Evolution #9 the eighth edition from Sokol Blosser of Oregon. We both favor white wine though neither of us are what you would call connoisseurs, but we each thoroughly enjoyed the unexpected nuances in our wine beautifully described by Danek.

Our experience at Red was rounded out by our dessert choices – so were we. We sampled three of the offerings, the evening’s special, Bavarian crème, the banana coconut tiramisu, and the gelato. It was apparent that all of the ingredients were fresh—the blueberries on the Bavarian crème were sweet and firms without being too tart, and the taste of the coconut of the tiramisu was appropriately understated—but the best of the bunch was the gelato. The texture of all three flavors were light and refreshing; the startling rosewater flavor was refreshing and delicious as were the more common coconut and mixed berry selections.

While we genuinely enjoyed the final course, we agreed that our favorites were the the scallops, the tuna, and the wine. We strongly recommend that all foodies pop in at Red for an excellent dinner. We chatted with a few of the other diners and we found one woman who considers herself a regular. She had a lot to say about her previous visits to the restaurant and wrapped it all up with the statement that Red boasts “very good food, and considerably so.”

Red! Color us happy!

red

417 New York Avenue

Huntington, NY 11743

631-673-0304

www.redrestaurantli.com

Cuisine:

Trendy New American

Price Range:

Expensive

Lunch:

Mon.-Fri. noon-3

Dinner:

Sunday 4-9

Mon.-Thur. 5-10

Fri. & Sat. 5-11

Main Menu