FOODIE
Bonwit Inn Has Come A Long Way
By Leah & Erin/ foodie@longislandernews.com

The allure of The Bonwit Inn is in its design. In the 36 years since it opened on Vanderbilt Parkway in Commack, its original room with a fireplace at each end has spread out into rooms that lead to rooms, and so on.

Parties big and small can enjoy the privacy that the separate dining areas bring to the Bonwit. A more casual bar and lounge to the right of the dining area provide additional seating in a more relaxed atmosphere, but with the same great menu.

Tim Dunbar, the manager, said the restaurant was originally a tollhouse along Vanderbilt Parkway when it was first built.

Steve Polatsidis, another manager who was working the room making sure drinks were refilled at every table, said their surf and turf special had been recently featured on ABC 7.

The big loaf of bread and the complimentary large Greek salad placed on the table when you sit down is sure to please big eaters. The salad and bread gives diners more time to relax as they nosh and peruse the menu.

The seafood appetizers, such as the Shrimp Cocktail ($13) and Mussels in a garlic and spicy tomato sauce ($8) were fresh from the sea.

The Butternut Squash ravioli ($15) stood out on the fairly traditional menu, and when we tasted it. The tender homemade ravioli was filled with butternut squash and lightly finished with a parmigiano, walnut and sage sauce, which was a hands-down favorite.

Named after the establishment, the Veal Bonwit ($20) was a mighty portion of sautéed scaloppini of veal, asparagus, shitake mushroom, baby shrimp and sun-dried tomatoes in a light cognac sauce. The Chicken Alla Zingra ($18) was a sautéed breast of chicken, garlic, mushrooms, roasted peppers, and artichoke hearts in a white sauce with a touch of tomato.

The Filet Mignon ($32) was a tender, large portion cooked in a merlot wine jus served atop whipped potatoes.

We tried the sautéed broccoli in garlic and oil ($5) and were pleased with the generous portion of fresh vegetables.

The restaurant also does catering events in the rooms above.

By far the most popular time of week for the Bonwit is their Sunday Brunch, which a banner outside proudly states.

From 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. the restaurant is packed and they regularly turn people away from this famous buffet feast. It includes the staples to any big breakfast such as omelets, French toast, waffles, pancakes, sausage, bacon and home-fried potatoes.

Since this is the brunch of all brunches, it strays far from the typical. Entrees include the Bonwit baked clams, fried calamari, eggplant rollatini, and various weekly specials. The seafood platter includes smoked or cold poached salmon, smoked whitefish, shrimp and snow crab legs. A cold salad buffet includes the famous Bonwit Greek salad, a tomato and mozzarella salad, chicken Caesar and an assortment of others. There is also a Tuscan table featuring a variety of imported and domestic cheeses, and marinated grilled vegetables. A carving station serves roast beef, roast turkey or pork. After all of that, there is still dessert, so remember to save room, no matter what time you come in. Reservations are recommended, especially for Sunday brunch.

The Bonwit Inn
1 Vanderbilt Parkway
Commack NY 11725
www.thebonwitinn.com
631-499-2068

Atmosphere: Casual

Price range: Inexpensive

Cuisine: Continental

Hours:
Lunch 1:30 p.m. -4 p.m.
Dinner 4 p.m.-10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday
open until 11 p.m.
Brunch Sunday 11 a.m. -2 p.m.

Main Menu