FOODIE
The Spicy Journey
By Ellen & Bryan/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Along a busy thoroughfare in Hicksville, where the aromatic scent of curry and spice seeps from every other restaurant, there is one that stands apart.

Taking us to a region of India where many of the restaurants along Broadway rarely do, Dosa Diner enables a Foodie to experience the rich taste of South India, and through a vegetarian approach at that.

With owner Ashok Kumar Nataraj as our guide, these Foodies were led through a vast array of South Indian spices and vegetables unique to the region.

Dosa Diner opened its doors at 128 Broadway in Hicksville two years ago when Nataraj brought his eight years of restaurant experience to the increasingly South Asian-populated neighborhood. As a manager at Sitar here in Huntington, Nataraj saw first hand what spices and curries enticed the diverse palates of Long Island, but more importantly he was able to pin-point exactly what the menus throughout the Island’s Indian restaurants were missing – South Indian dishes.

“There are a few South Indian restaurants in the area, but not many,” he explained Sunday night as the tables throughout the modest restaurant began to fill. “And all they offer is the traditional Dosa, Medu Vada and Uthappam. They don’t offer the authentic meals and that’s what we do.”

Leading us towards the appetizers, Nataraj quickly presented a plate of Fried Idly ($3.75), morsels of soft rice pancakes coated in delectable spices fried to a crisp perfection. While savoring the local delicacy, Nataraj filled the Foodies in on two other traditional South Indian appetizers, the Bhel Puri ($2.95), a dish of puffed rice tossed with onion, chili, tomato, coriander, tamarind and mint; and the Ragada Patties ($4.25), spicy potato patties, layered chick peas, onion, yogurt, tamarind and mint sauce. The more familiar appetizers, such as Samosas ($3.50), potato and peas stuffed in a crispy wheat bread and deep fried, and Mix Vegetable Pakora ($3.50), sliced onions, potatoes and lentils battered and fried, were found on the moderately priced menu as well.

Looking over the short list of soups including, Rasam ($2), a South Indian tradition of spice soup; Cream of Tomato ($2.95); and the Mulligatawny ($2.95), a puree of coconut and lentils, and toward the enormous portions emerging from the swinging kitchen doors, these Foodies, despite the mouthwatering urge we were battling, moved on towards the main course.

Choosing between the Dosa Diner Heavens, various entrées priced at $7.25; Uthappams, an assortment of rice pancakes ranging from $4.95 to $6.95; Dosa Diner Delights, a mix of vegetables layered inside a crisp crepe made from a batter of lentils and rice blended with water and left to ferment overnight, served with a rich sambar stew, spicy mango chutney, and coconut chutney; and the Dosa Diner Rice Heavens, a selection of vegetable and spice-based rice dishes ranging from $5.50 to $6.50, we went for a more traditional Dosa Diner Delight and the restaurant’s take on a North Indian dish.

Ordering to spice, Nataraj placed the Cheese Chennai Masala Dosa ($7.50), named after Chennai a city in South India, on the table. Cut into sections, a layer of spices coated the inside of the crisp dosa, which was wrapped around a bed of soft potatoes in melted cheese. The Bhindi Masala ($7.25) made its way to the table next. Due to its thicker sauce, even though Nataraj steers away from the often-used creams and butters used in North Indian cooking, the Bhindi Masala, a mix of crisp okra with bell peppers, onions and kadai masala, is still is a North Indian dish.

“We make sure all of waiters can cook as well as serve,” Nataraj chimed in over the soft instrumentals humming in the background. “That way they know what is going into each meal. And if it gets busy we can send anyone to the back to help with the cooking.”

Dosa Diner also specializes in sweet South Indian desserts including Kulfi ($3.00); frozen sweetened rich milk sauce flavored with mango, malai or pistachio, among many others.

Reaching the end of our journey through the authentic South Indian dishes prepared by chiefs Krishna Kumar, Ram Kumar and Senthil Kumar, we knew that as we opened those doors the rich scent following us would be sure to lure in more diners, who have yet to experience the spicy, yet sweet and savory tastes of South India.

Dosa Dinner
128 Broadway
Hicksville
516-681-5151
www.dosadiner.us

Atmosphere: Casual, Family

Cuisine: Authentic South Indian

Price Range: Inexpensive

Hours:
Buffet lunch served daily. Monday- Friday $6.95,
Saturday and Sunday $8.95
Monday-Sunday 11:30 a.m.- 10 p.m.
Daily Buffet
11:30 a.m.- 3 p.m.,
ala carte 3 p.m.- 10 p.m.

Main Menu