FOODIE
Hats Off To Panama Hatties
By Pete & M ike/ foodie@longislandernews.com

If you had just one chance to dine out in a year, this would be the place to pick.
For over a decade, Panama Hatties has been cooking to critical acclaim, consistently earning stars from reviewers, praise from the food bloggers and astonishment from its diners. The restaurant has earned the coveted “Exceptional” proclamation from the New York Times’ Joanne Starkey, and is consistently rated by Zagat’s among the Island’s top 10 for food. Simply put, Panama Hatties is a diamond in Huntington Station.

hef/owner Matthew Hisiger is a Dix Hills resident who bought the restaurant in 2003 after working several years in the kitchen. With a master’s degree in business and a passion for cooking, Hisiger has put together a restaurant experience that shines on all fronts.

From the moment Hisiger greets diners and escorts them into the restaurant’s staid
interior, diners have his full attention until he says his thank you as they leave the restaurant. The attitude extends to the service staff, whose discreet attentions leave no one wanting.

But Panama Hatties is about the food, and it’s the creative cookery, currently under Chef de Cuisine Daniel Chamagna – who earns the restaurant raves.

The top dining experience would almost be a surprise were it not for the reviewers. Located in a strip mall on Jericho Turnpike, the restaurant’s exterior does little to convey the dining experience that awaits within. But on the other side of the glass paneled doors, that experience begins.

Sober tones of chocolate-bronze and deep green mark the comfortable interior spaces, which give a regal air without being overly luxuriant. The front dining room, where one is likely to be seated at lunch, is light and airy while the main dining space at the back has a more sober tone. Deeply cushioned banquettes line the walls, and tables are draped with crisp white cloths — a sign that some serious dining lays ahead.

With soft music on the sound system, we were given time to settle in and look over a menu of starters. A plate of cheese selections was tempting to these fans of all things “fromage,” but we were readying for some serious sampling. A tradition at Panama Hatties, an amuse bouche, which is literally French for “mouth amuser,” comes compliments of the chef and gives a preview of what lays ahead. It also takes the edge off one’s appetite while looking over the menu.

On our recent visit, the chef’s choice was a lively tasting tidbit of marinated salmon and kimchi slaw on a puff pastry. Just a couple of bites, it was a perfect mood setter.

As it was, our tastes ran toward the seafood. From the first course menu, we made what for us were somewhat predictable selections. Diver scallops rate high on the Foodies’ favorites list, and ahi tuna selections also tend to grab our attention. In this case, the scallops ($15) – perfectly pan seared to preserve the buttery tenderness of the meaty scallop – were combined with another favorite, apple wood smoked bacon.
Brussel sprouts, tomato and shellfish broth lent an autumnal flavor to the dish, and was so delish we turned to the fluffy rolls to sop up every drop of flavor from our plates.
Rare Seared Big Eye Tuna ($16) was a light and fruity treatment of tuna tartar combining mango panna cotta, oriental lychee, and plum sauce that sets a tingle to the tongue. Appetizer portions were large enough to share, which we did.

Also from the first course menu, Mesclun Greens Salad ($12) with goat cheese croquette and a passion fruit vinaigrette offers a lighter start to a meal, and we were very tempted by the Jumbo Crab Napolean ($15) promising an intriguing combination of coconut orange aioli and Russian beet. For the truly serious, Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras ($22) promises a rare combination of exotic fruits.

Meatier selections beckoned from the second course menu, which included duck, steak and seafood selections. One of the chef’s specials – slices of tender rare venison-was a symphony of color as well as flavor. A pretty orange squash peeking through a quince slice and a cool bed of cucumbery green was as pretty to look at as it was flavorful.

The more traditional Blue Cheese Crusted Filet Mignon ($38) is a satisfying choice for the meat and potatoes crowd that still brings a level of sophistication with a red onion confit and cabernet jus complementing a fork tender filet. As with all of the dishes, the serving size was just right, particularly for a heavier meat course.

Other menu temptations… the Long Island Duck Breast ($31) with fried rice, toasted cashews and baby spinach promise depth of flavor, plus the treat of a crispy duck leg.
Grilled Prawns ($35), Veal Porterhouse ($37) and Pan Seared Swordfish ($34) all sound like winners.

Rich coffee and a three dessert sampler topped off the meal. On a single long plate were the warm apple tart ($10) served with vanilla ice cream and raspberry sauce; a sophisticated mocha cheesecake, with flavors of almond, and blueberry and brandy whipped cream; and a moist Carrot Cake ($10) served with chocolate sauce and topped by a spectacular triangle of white chocolate.

From kitchen to table, the well-paced parade of flavors was skillfully served by wait staff as professional as they come. Our waiter Philip was attentive without being intrusive — silverware was changed between every course, water glasses kept filled, and questions were answered on the spot. Philip was well informed about the dishes and in fact is studying to be a chef.

Hisiger inherited a fabled history when he bought Panama Hatties. The training ground of many of the Island’s top chefs, the restaurant enjoys a well-deserved reputation. For his part, Hisiger – who still tries to spend at least 10 hours a week in the kitchen – is trying to make the Panama Hattie’s experience more accessible. A $21 three course lunch (weekdays) joins a popular $65 prix fixe menu offered Friday and Saturday nights. In addition to a la carte service, the “full house” experience — a five course tasting menu for $85 – can be upped with wine pairings for $105 per person.
An impressive and extensive selection of wines by the bottle includes some 20 wines available by the glass.

Memories of our meal linger, and completing the experience, a follow up phone call from the restaurant asked if everything was satisfactory.

We told her it was… extraordinary.

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