FOODIE
Sophisticated And Youthful Seafood Cuisine
By Leah Weinstein/ foodie@longislandernews.com

There are certain ingredients that make a Foodie take notice, but not even the finest ingredients are enough on their own. The best combinations at Bedlam Street Fish and Clam Company fuse the classic and non-traditional with a flair for unique flavors.

Jonathan Passman worked at Bedlam for two years as an assistant chef with the former owner before he and his family took over last winter. With the help of his younger siblings, who both manage the restaurant, they have given Bedlam a fresh, youthful edge without impeding upon its historic charm.

Passman, 32, is the executive chef and his culinary skills command attention. This avid fisherman knows his fish, and his passion is evident on his menu.

He describes the restaurant as upscale yet cozy and casual. The ambiance and food reflect all three of these characteristics. The small dining room is opened up during the summer by the large doors facing Main Street. During the winter, the small size provides for a warm atmosphere. Passman and his siblings, Sarah and Matthew give Bedlam its charm through the use of details. From the food to the hospitality, it exudes warmth. The comfortable interior with black and white photos and a chalkboard with the daily specials add to the charm of downtown Cold Spring Harbor.

The patrons on a weeknight range from families to couples enjoying their meal to nearby residents stopping in for a late dinner.

Two of the waitresses at Bedlam have worked at the location for over 30 years each. Passman knows there is a history to his business and the town it feeds but as a young, creative chef, his influence is obvious in the menu. He gradually introduces a personal touch on classic seafood cuisine with a sophisticated yet comforting style.

A glance at the menu shows his versatility and desire to make Bedlam reflect his eclectic taste.

The menu is equally divided among seafood and meat and although the dishes lean more towards exotic flavoring, there are well-prepared staples to be enjoyed as well.

The tuna sashimi napoleon layered with zesty chopped vegetables is a great appetizer at a place where most of the other fish is cooked.

Smoked salmon crepes ($14) drizzled with vodka dill and lightly topped with a combination of pickled red onions, caper crème fraiche and tobiko caviar are intricate yet so simple.

The corn-fried oysters ($14) are lightly breaded and just about melt in your mouth.

The braised beef and mushroom quesadillas ($11) add a great twist to a list of more traditional seafood appetizers. Served with caramelized onions, blue cheese and Creole crème fraiche, they bring a youthful touch yet don’t stray from quality.

The list continues with lobster, shrimp or crab cocktail ($16, $15, $15 respectively) and Oceans Eleven, a platter of three raw oysters, three raw clams, three shrimp, one lobster tail and jumbo lump crab meat.

Three salads provide a range of tastes with detailed ingredients and dressings. The seasonal greens ($11) include roasted butternut squash, crumbled goat cheese, poached beets, crushed spicy pecans and pomegranate vinaigrette.

There is a classic Caesar salad ($10) available as well.

The final salad option is a warm duck confit salad ($12). With frisee, brie, cranberry poached pear, a truffled-butternut squash dressing and crispy wontons blended together, it is a great example of Passmans skill.

The three pasta dishes are also available during lunch hours at a moderate price and add eloquence to the daytime menu. They each include the signature ingredients that raise the food on the Bedlam menu above par.

Each dish really hits a different niche and hits it hard. A sweet potato gnocchi ($16 dinner, $13 lunch) is served with diced Anjou pear, bacon and a gorgonzola fondue. A Fini linguini “Cozze Y Vongole” ($18 dinner, $13 lunch) includes mussels, clams, garlic and oil and shaved pepper. The whole-wheat fusilli ($18 dinner, $14 lunch) comes with shrimp, spiced goat cheese, spinach and a creamy pecan pesto.

Michelle, a young waitress who has been working at Bedlam for three months, recommended the Portuguese Fisherman Stew ($34). This satisfying seafood combination includes lobster tail, jumbo shrimp, mussels, clams, Andouille sausage, in a saffron-tomato bouillon. Work your way to the bottom of this bowl with a partner.

The blue point braised short ribs ($27) has a sweet glaze that seeps into every bite and can be pulled right off the plate.

One flaw was a short list of white wines to pair with the different preparations for fish.

A Mahi-Mahi special in a curry lentil stew, with fennel, leak and golden raisins was a surprisingly pleasant blend of sweet and spicy without overwhelming the natural essence of the fish.

Even someone who isn’t a self-proclaimed Seafoodie only needed one hesitant bite before finishing the dish by the forkful.

A homemade bread pudding is one wonderful desert option, but the peanut butter chocolate cheesecake is just the right amount of everything to end your meal on a high note.

Bedlam is the place to take a break from shopping on Main Street with an expanded list of salads, wraps, sandwiches and grilled flat breads. It can also be that perfect low-key evening for the sophisticated palate. Head over to Bedlam, your tastebuds will thank you.

Bedlam Street Fish and Clam Company
55 Main Street
Cold Spring Harbor
631-692-5655

Cuisine: Seafood, American

Atmosphere: Upscale, Casual

Price Range: Moderate
to expensive

Hours:
Tuesday –Thursday:
11 a.m.-10 p.m.
Friday and Saturday:
11 a.m.-11 p.m.
Sunday: 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Closed Mondays

Main Menu