FOODIE
Pumpernickel’s: A Tradition For Decades
By Pete & Rosie/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Dinner at Pumpernickel’s Restaurant is a tradition for generations of residents from Northport and surrounding areas. Standing at the crossroads of Main Street and Route 25A, Artie Glad’s German-American restaurant is a landmark in more ways than one.
In the simplest sense, the restaurant’s location is at the entrance to Northport’s Main Street. It’s both on the way, and on the way home. But it’s in another sense that Pumpernickel’s truly enjoys landmark status. As a tradition among generations of residents, it’s a place where families gather to celebrate occasions like birthdays and anniversaries; or to mark life’s important events like graduations and new jobs. It’s the kind of place a guy might take his girl to pop the question. In short, it’s a warm and comfortable home away from home.

The main floor of the two-story restaurant is dominated by the main dining room and a bar area with a handful of tables and booths, all lit with the warm glow from stained glass lighting fixtures. The bar area has the same peach painted walls and blond oak accents as the main dining room, but the proximity of the game-night bar crowds makes it more casual. More dining rooms upstairs are used for parties and large gatherings.

Waitresses in traditional German dress are friendly and many have been with the restaurant for years. Lisa, our server on a recent Sunday visit, is a 12-year veteran who said many staff members have been there longer.

The food at Pumpernickel’s is German and it’s with the traditional dishes – sauerbrauten, wurst platters, pork chops and veal – that the kitchen excels. But it’s not all meat and potatoes at Pumpernickels. Given the ready availability of the finest fresh seafood, fish and shellfish entrees feature prominently on the menu, particularly as specials.

Dinner at Pumpernickel’s opens with a bread basket that includes tasty onion roll, and traditional German flat breads, but go right for the pumpernickel. Not surprisingly, it’s the best in the basket.

The wine list features nearly three dozen varietals, including a wide selection of German wines. If you know them, order away; otherwise ask for suggestions, or try the house Reisling.

Chef Louis Glad – Artie’s brother – and the kitchen staff prepare an extensive menu that ranges from hearty homemade soups, to sandwiches and German specialties.
Onion Soup ($$6.95), dripping with cheese, is a favorite, but chowders are a specialty. Manhattan Clam Chowder ($5.95) is thick with clams. On the night we visited, Seafood Chowder ($5.95) was recommended from the specials menu. Creamy and flavorful with chunks of fish, clams, scallops and potato, it was almost a meal in itself.
Appetizers include the popular Clams Casino ($8.95), Oregonata ($8.95 on the specials menu), and Stuffed Mushroom Caps ($7.95). German traditionalists might go for the Herring in sour cream and onions ($7.95). We were also tempted by the Berry Salad ($12.95), a mix of fresh berries and nuts with Gorgonzola cheese over mixed greens.

Deciding on an entrée is tough. We instinctively steered toward the chops and roasts, but the menu is extensive enough to require more than a casual look before deciding. Roast Loin of Pork with sauerkraut ($18.95); traditional Weiner Schnitzel, a sautéed breaded veal cutlet ($18.95) all beckoned. So too did the Wurst platter, a choice Knockwurst, Bratwurst or Weisswurst (any two, $16.95).

We went with some traditional offerings. Traditional slow roasted German Sauerbraten ($18.95) was fork tender in a rich, dark gravy with potato dumplings and red cabbage on the side. From the specials menu, we also ordered the Pork Chops Stuffed with Apple Cranberry Stuffing ($19.95). Two chops were generously stuffed with a delicious dressing and served with a generous pile of mashed potatoes that would be worth ordering alone.

AS we said, Pumpernickel’s menu isn’t limited to German specialties. Our Sunday visit had a half-dozen fish specialties on the specials menu, including Idaho Rainbow Trout ($20.95), Broiled Salmon ($20.95) and Crabmeat Stuffed Shrimp ($23.95).
Also calling from the specials board were Veal Piccota with artichoke hearts and capers and a white wine and lemon sauce ($20.95), and the Prime Rib ($25.95).

Portions are generous at Pumpernickel’s, but desserts are as ably prepared as the entrees, The Apple Struedel ($5.95) is a must. Oven warmed and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, it brought a warm experience to a flavorful end. It was a flavor so worth repeating that not sure that we’ll ever get around to the other desserts on the menu when we return.

Pumpernickel’s
640 Main Street
Northport
631-757-7959

Cuisine: German-American

Atmosphere: Authentic
German, Casual

Price Range: Moderate

Hours:
Lunch: Mon-Thur 11:30-3,
Fri & Sat 11:30–4
Dinner: Mon-Thur 5 – 10,
Fri & Sat 4 – 11
Sunday 1 – 9

Main Menu