The Clubhouse Celebrates 50 Years
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com

SFor 50 years, The Clubhouse in Huntington has been the place for steaks. And it’s that expertise, attention to detail and commitment to excellence that has led the Bies family to their golden anniversary.

Owner Jeffrey Bies has been the proprietor of The Clubhouse for nearly 30 years. His parents, John and Geraldine, opened The Clubhouse in 1962. At the time, they owned several other restaurants, but as they pared down their holdings, The Clubhouse was the keeper.

The entire space, from the entrance hallway to the cozy dining room, exudes warmth and familiarity, and much of that familiarity is thanks to the staff. Many, ranging from the busboys to chef Charlie Labartino, have been a part of The Clubhouse family for more than a decade and know how to make clients feel comfortable and part of the place.

“The most important thing is my staff,” Bies said. “I just have some really great people here.”

The Clubhouse’s bar boasts mixed drinks aplenty and an extensive red wine selection to enhance the primarily meat-eater’s menu. The wine list has been a regular on Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence since the mid-2000s, and in 2005, The Clubhouse was named one of the country’s Wine-Friendliest Restaurants.

Jeffrey started us out with the Duck Breast and Vegetable appetizer ($12), tender, savory sliced duck breast with julienne vegetables and avocado dressing wrapped in a tortilla and a tangy Thai dipping sauce. And you can never go wrong with Lobster Claw Cocktail ($18), fresh, sweet and cool, served with a Cajun remoulade.

Wrapped Sea Scallops ($13) are a knockout. Giant, succulent scallops are wrapped in thick-cut Applewood Smoked Bacon, which is served supple and crisp; and finished with a Grand Marnier and Molasses glaze. The combination is a smoky, sweet and savory tour de force.

From the beginning, The Clubhouse has focused on more than straightaway steakhouse broiler work, also opting for fresh seafood, veal, chicken, prime pork and sauces. Seasonal fresh produce and spices come from Labartino’s garden on his property out east, allowing the restaurant to offer an experience most associate with Hamptons restaurants.

The Clubhouse’s masterwork continues to be their selection of top-of-the-line steaks. Their menu boasts a diverse selection of cuts ranging from filet mignon, T-bone, New York strip, chateaubriand and porterhouse. A special offering during our visit was the Long Bone Colorado Rib Eye for two ($90), served on a bed of sautéed onions. Prepped with just a kosher salt rub, it’s one of the juiciest, most tender cuts steaks we’ve had in our travels, bursting with rich beef flavor and magnificent in its simplicity.
It’s no surprise dessert menus tend to be short at a place where meat-eaters sit down specifically to dine on prime cuts, but if you can, save a bit of room because there are many treats to be had. Desserts are in the $8 range, and include offerings like Geraldine’s classic Pecan Pie, a nutty, balanced presentation that hits the sweet tooth just right without overwhelming it. Holly’s homemade New York Style cheesecake is rich, and creamy with extra attention paid to the crust. Tiramisu is a feather-light, melt-in-your-mouth delight.

The Clubhouse is winding up its back-to-school, three-course menu this Friday, which will run you $35 or $40 depending the entrée. That clears the way for the 50th anniversary celebration from Sept. 16-28, when diners can enjoy a starter plate of an appetizer, soup or salad paired, with Chateaubriand for two and lobster tails and a dessert. It’s a great time to become acquainted with The Clubhouse, or help an old friend celebrate their longevity.

The Clubhouse
320 East Jericho Turnpike,
Huntington
631-423-1155
www.clubhousesteaks.com
Atmosphere: Warm, inviting and familiar
Cuisine – World-class steak, seafood and meats
Price: Apps $5-18; Entrees $22-$48
Hours: Closed Monday
Tues-Fri noon-10 p.m.
Fri noon-11 p.m.
Sat 5.-11 p.m.; Sun 4-9 p.m.