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A New Look At Classic
Portuguese
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com
Allison Nobre sits at our table with a slim wood skewer in
her hand. She’s about to give us a primer on how to eat
snails.
They are tender, petite Portuguese land snails, served in
an enticing white wine, fresh herb and garlic broth. Caracois
Lisboa ($12) are just one of the dozens of new additions to
the menu at Fado, owned by Allison and her husband, Eddie.
The place was overhauled just ahead of its second birthday
in Huntington village Aug. 15. At about the same time, the
couple opened a second floor, a 40-seat space perfect for
parties and overflow crowds during prime time.
The new menu, Allison explains, introduces select traditional
Portuguese dishes – the snails are one of them –
to Huntington village diners and incorporates favorites from
the last two years, along with a bit of back-home inspiration.
One appetizer, Cascas de Batata Frita ($7) made it on the
menu after Eddie had the thick-cut, fried potato skins at
a Portuguese footballer’s café back home.
An array of new appetizers graced our table. In the light,
summery Rolinhos de Salmao ($10), fresh zucchini ribbons are
filled with salmon and onions and presented in a gentle sweet
onion dill cream sauce. Juicy and tender marinated chicken
skewers are topped with a sun-dried tomato and black olive
tapenade in Espetada de Galinha ($9).
Order up an Afternoon in Portugal ($14) for a tour of the
country’s staples. Aged Portuguese cheese, earthy and
nutty with a semi-sharp kick, starts you off; then make your
way to moist and flavorful sun-dried tomatoes and spicy marinated
olives, smoky grilled pork belly, white anchovies and toast
points. Instead of anchovies, we had one of nature’s
superfoods – a simply grilled, flavorful sardine, topped
in Portuguese olive oil.
Fado’s attention to detail, freshness and impressive
presentation remain a staple. Costuleta de Cebolada con Cogumelos
($25) is comfort food all the way, a melt-in-your-mouth pair
of pork chops smothered in a black truffle-wild mushroom cream
sauce. Allison says the sauce on Frango a Piri Piri ($24)
is one of her favorites, and we can see why: the half roasted
chicken, seasoned expertly and prepared to be delightfully
juicy and tender, is complemented by a spicy piri piri cream
sauce that invites peppery heat to dance across your tongue.
A nod to the seafaring, trading routes of Portugal, you’ll
never go wrong with seafood. Portuguese Fisherman’s Stew
($27), a special that graduated to the main menu, evokes India
with a curry and saffron cream sauce that tops mussels, bay
scallops, shrimp, squid and Little Neck clams. Their love
affair with squid and octopus continues with Lulas Grelhadas
($27), char-grilled squid splashed with smoked paprika oil
arranged artfully atop tomato chourico rice.
Be sure to save a spot for desserts like decadent dark chocolate
mousse ($7), a must for chocoholics, served with fresh berries,
whipped cream and excellent sugar cookies. Their key lime
tart pie ($7) is lighter, citrusy and served with fresh raspberry
reduction. Or, go for the flan ($7), a balanced, creamy classic
accented with a touch of honey.
With their restaurant growing, an extensive Portuguese bar
stocked, culinary creativity and genuine hospitality on full
display, let’s just hope this is only the beginning of
Fado’s story in Huntington village.
Fado
10 New St., Huntington Village
631-351-1010
Atmosphere – Welcoming, cozy and inviting
Cuisine – Portuguese classics and new takes
Price – Apps $7-15; Entrees $23-30
Hours – Mon-Thurs;11:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri &
Sat; 11:30 a.m.-11 p.m. Sun; 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m.
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