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Old-World German
Charm Abounds
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com
Northport’s Pumpernickel’s restaurant has been a
mainstay on Main Street for nearly 40 years, and after a recent
visit, there’s little wonder why Artie Glad’s neighborhood
institution is still going strong.
It’s a delightful place chock-full of Old-World charm,
from the waitresses in long, patterned dresses to the ever-present
German music dominated by accordions and accented with a bit
of yodeling for good measure. And due to a paucity of restaurants
that focus primarily on German cuisine, when you find a good
one like Pumpernickel’s, it makes you cherish it even
more.
There’s a lot to choose from, including German specialties
like Sauerbraten ($13.50/$18.95), Wiener Schnitzel ($13.95/$21.95),
Knockwurst, Bratwurst and Weisswurt; fresh fish specials,
chicken and shrimp dishes, several steak choices and some
scallops to boot. There’s something here for everyone,
including lovers of traditional fare, like Ochsenmaul Salad,
frog’s legs, clams casino and escargot, that might be
a bit hard to find elsewhere.
We stuck with classics, settling on Hungarian Beef Goulash
($12.95 lunch; $23.95 for Beef Stroganoff at dinner), a big
winner with juicy beef medallions in a peppery, dark gravy
which complements the big, buttery noodles very well. The
Bavarian House Platter ($13.50, lunch only), combines a tender,
thick and smoky pork chop, authentic bratwurst and mashed
potatoes and sauerkraut for a satisfying combination. That’s
one of several platters available to diners (like us) who
want to have a little of everything.
Lunch at Pumpernickel’s is a great value – ours
came with a choice of soup/salad, a selection of dessert and
tea and coffee. Rich rice pudding, topped with whipped cream
and punctuated by bright cinnamon, is one great choice. There
is also a selection of sorbets and ice cream.
The hardest part of the meal might be breaking off the conversation,
putting down that cup of coffee you’ve been nursing a
while and getting back out to the world. Pumpernickel’s
is a comfortable, homey spot that can make anybody from 18
to 80 feel right at home – and has been since 1973.
Pumpernickel’s
640 Main St., Northport
631-757-7959
http://pumpernickelsofnorthport.com
Atmosphere – Old-World comforts
Cuisine – Classic German-American
Price – Moderate
Hours –Mon-Thurs: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m.; 5-10 p.m.
Fri-Sat: 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; 4-11 p.m.
Sun: 1-9 p.m.
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