XO: A Love Affair With Creativity
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com

Jason Kitton, the owner of XO Restaurant, Wine and Chocolate Lounge on Wall Street, tell us his culinary goal is to make a big impression.

“We like to take traditional dishes and put a twist on it,” he said. “Do something different that people haven’t seen before and get the ‘wow’ factor going.”
Mission accomplished.

At every turn, Kitton, who, at age 25 has been involved in nearly every aspect of the restaurant business, and executive chef Christopher Lano impressed us with their innovative New American cuisine, an eye for freshness and a sense of adventure that reaps big rewards.

XO is a “leap-year baby,” having opened the doors of its new home on Feb. 29. After rebounding from a fire that knocked them out of their former Clinton Street address, XO moved into the former Osteria Toscana on Wall Street. The split-level space allows XO to maintain a warm, jazzy dining room accented by brick and wooden finish on the first floor and a sultry, dimmed and candle-lit lounge with couches and cocktail tables in hues of chocolate brown and red.

We started our meal with a sumptuous spread of appetizers. Moist Jumbo Lump Crab Cake ($14), served atop a red pepper fennel slaw and red chili crab sauce, beautifully complements the milder crab cake and brings out the best in both. Crisp Pulled Pork Dumplings ($10) are a satisfying fusion of Asian and Southern staples with tangy barbecue glaze and Asian slaw. If you’re a tuna lover, keep an eye out for super-fresh trio of tuna topped with black truffle peelings; “Fire and Ice,” with seared, peppered tuna with blood orange sorbet; and tuna tartare topped with red caviar.

If you like cocktails, you’ve come to the right place. Kitton says their Chocolate Espresso Martini ($12) is one of the most popular, and for good reason – the smooth and sweet yet potent concoction will satisfy coffee and chocolate fanatics alike. One of the ladies in our group said her go-to cocktail is a Pomegranate Martini, and she said XO’s, a simple libation of Absolut Citron, pomegranate liqueur and lemon juice, was one of the best she’s ever had.

After our first round, a surprise plate – a special sampler of Red Chile Shrimp served atop a dollop of rich sour cream, paired with cold Pineapple Crab and Jalapeno soup – illustrates XO’s willingness to take chances and think outside the box. Keep an eye out for the Thai-inspired shrimp and snap it up when you can, because it’s spectacular. The beguiling soup marries flavors and big chunks of tender crab in ways that never crossed our minds.

The entrees kept the “wow” moments coming. Tender Grilled Skirt Steak ($24) in a savory coffee barbecue sauce is served atop rich mashed potatoes and garnished with sweet and crunchy Portobello fries. Juicy Chilean Sea Bass ($30) is paired with satisfying sweet-pea risotto with big chunks of lobster. Sesame-Crusted Big Eye Tuna ($32), with roasted fennel and a Wasabi Orange Aioli, was another big hit at our table.
The big finish, however, comes in a pot with a Lazy Susan at the base. Fondue is a major staple of the dessert menu. Perfect for sharing with friends, it’s something we highly recommend. The S’mores version ($21) is warm, chocolaty bliss.

Needless to say, we’re already planning a return visit. Kitton told us the Pan-Seared Duck ($26), with sweet potato mash and a chocolate cherry reduction, is another customer favorite. The lobster, shrimp, garlic, red chile and tomato spaghetti ($24), one of six pasta dishes on the menu, looks like another knockout that we’ll have to try on a return visit.

Explore the menu with a generous $24.95 prix-fixe menu all night Sunday-Thursday and until 6:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday; or enjoy a cocktail during Happy Hour from 5-7 p.m. and Ladies’ Night on Thursday.

XO Restaurant, Wine
& Chocolate Lounge
69 Wall St., Huntington village
631-549-7074
www.xowinebar.com
Atmosphere: Jazzy dining; cozy lounging
Cuisine: New American
Price: Moderate-Expensive
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday 5-11 p.m.
Friday & Saturday: 5 p.m.-2 a.m.
Sunday: 4-10 p.m.