New Chef Reinventing Porto Vivo’s Menu
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com

In the two-plus years after their a flashy opening, Porto Vivo is settling in and going back to basics. Good food, simple yet diverse menu offerings and an always-comfortable atmosphere are establishing the restaurant as a reliable family favorite.
Porto Vivo burst on the Huntington restaurant scene in 2009 following an extensive renovation of a one-time antiques warehouse on Gerard Street. The showpiece restaurant, featuring multilevel dining rooms with a bustling lounge at its heart, is the brainchild of Home Shopping Network guru Joy Mangano and another chapter in the story of how a single mom converted a good idea to wild business success.
Mangano is known as the “mother of invention,” a play on words that marries her business roots – she’s an inventor who’s turned good ideas into top-selling merchandise – and one of the few things in her life that might be more important to her – motherhood. Mangano is perhaps best known as the inventor of the Huggable Hanger, a sturdy, flat hanger covered in a fabric-gripping velvety material that have changed millions of closets forever. Hundreds of millions of them – yes, hundreds of millions! – have been sold on the Home Shopping Network, where Mangano is one of the network’s most popular and successful presenters.

For Porto Vivo, Mangano has tapped the showmanship she learned in television while emphasizing the comfort and conviviality that mealtimes bring to Italian households. While any restaurant experience involves a bit of theater and showmanship, the Italian respect for simplicity, freshness and sheer enjoyment of food is always at the forefront at Porto Vivo.

The upscale décor, with its dark woods, clean lines and contemporary details, has a richness that is at the same time comfortable. The main level dining is slightly more casual than the upstairs fireplace room; both are at the same time sophisticated and welcoming. On our recent visit we were seated at our favorite table opposite the kitchen. From our banquette seating we were privy to the workings of the bustling, part-open kitchen across the main dining room.

In his first few months at the helm of that bustling kitchen, Chef Balbo has made his mark. The menu does retain some favorites, like the prosciutto, fig and arugula pizzette ($18), a satisfying marriage of complimentary salty and sweet tastes that’s suitable for sharing to start a meal, or a great late-night meal at the bar. But for the most part, the menu is Balbo’s. It’s simple, yet with a diversity in its offerings. One can go for a simple pizzette and a salad, or choose from a variety of sophisticated menu offerings. On our visit, we went the classic route – appetizer, entrée and dessert – to try as much of the menu as possible.

Appetizers are generous, so there’s enough to share a few among a table full of guests. Porto Vivo crab cocktail ($16), is lump crabmeat in a pool of tomato-vodka soup with a lemon jam and celery “spuma” (Italian for froth) swirled in. It is dramatically presented in an oversized bowl with the individual components providing flavors for both the eyes and mouth.

Delightful a dish as that was, it was overshadowed by the burst of flavors in the Tuna and Watermelon salad ($13). Diced Ahi tuna, watermelon and tomatoes with an intense yuzu emulsion, proved to be a complex and sophisticated mix. Peppery basil, sharp vinegar and pine nuts each brought their own music, and all of it over a sprinkling of sea salt that danced with the sweet watermelon. We could have ended the meal there only because it left us so contented.

The realm of citrus flavors, vinegars and herbs seems a comfort zone for the chef, and we’re eager to return for another dance with a salad. The house salad with bibb lettuce, endive, pears and blue cheese with a blood orange vinaigrette ($11) sounds like it might do the trick, but we’d also like to take the roasted beet and ricotta salata salad ($9) with aged sherry vinegar, roasted hazelnuts and citrus segments for a spin.
Likewise, intriguing appetizers we’ll try include the roast octopus ($11) with dried chorizo, lemon, garlic, basil and that aged sherry vinegar; and the classic buffalo mozzarella ($13) with its smoked sea salt, olive and basil oils and balsamic reduction.
We skipped the pasta selections, again thinking we’ll return. (“Pass the Meatballs” night beckons, but more about that later.) Instead we dove right into composed entrée plates. Filet mignon ($38) is prime beef served simply with asparagus spears and Porto Vivo mac and cheese, a baked, cheese-topped crock with truffle and a hint of something sherry-like. The meat speaks for itself in this dish.

We also tried a special of slow roasted pork shank over mashed potatoes. The chef’s skills with the spice rack – this dish was rich with tarragon – broke through any heaviness, while broccoli rabe reveled in aromatic garlic.

Roasted lamb loin ($36) sounds similarly complex with its “cumin-scented eggplant” and “grappa-soaked fried grapes,” and it comes with Vivo’s signature sautéed baby artichokes. Yeah, we’ll be back, though next time we’ll probably opt for one of the chef’s tastings menus: five courses for $75 per person; or $45 for a pasta tasting menu. We’ve learned enough to trust the chef’s choices.

Dessert seemed almost superfluous. We kept it simple, choosing pound cake with vanilla gelato ($8) and fresh orange segments only because the restaurant really seems to shine where fresh fruit is involved. Molten chocolate cake with peanut butter gelato tempted, as did a cheese and fruit platter.

Service was attentive throughout the night, even with the demands of two large parties in the restaurant. The only disappointment of the night was the coffee. Our advice is to ask before you order whether they’ve switched to a new supplier.

Being the brainchild of an inventive marketing whiz, Porto Vivo is always trying something new. Live music in the lounge, wine-paired dinners, “Pass the Meatballs” night and sumptuous Sunday brunch provide something for everyone. Coming up is Italian Week, a seven-night celebration of Italian food with something different every night of the week from Feb. 27 through March 4. A chef’s tasting is set for Thursday.