Neraki: Simple And Fresh
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com

The word for water in Greek is Neraki, and for those fortunate enough to have made the discovery, it’s also the name of a new restaurant on Huntington village’s vibrant restaurant scene. Since opening this past spring, Neraki Greek Mediterranean Grill has carved a niche for itself with a menu of classic Greek specialties and simply prepared fresh seafood.

We emphasize the word fresh, because that’s what Neraki is all about. Owners Alex and Olga Moschos have created the feel of a Greek seaside village at the restaurant, housed in the former Sally’s Cocofe on Main Street. Walls are painted an intense blue that evokes the Aegean and overhead, an undulating cutout on the ceiling echoes the rippling lines where sand meets a gentle surf. Alex’s photographs of Greek seaside villages adorn the walls.

What really evokes the seaside feel, though, is the seafood. Near daily trips to the New York City market assure it is as fresh as any served in a Greek island restaurant. The day’s catch is displayed on ice in a glass case at the end of the bar, and Chef Alex, who makes it a point to be a constant presence in the dining room, is happy to share his knowledge of the fish he’s picked up at market. The case has its regulars – snapper, porgy, monkfish, striped bass and branzino are always on the menu and are joined by the catch of the day.

The Moschos’ roots are Greek – their children spoke Greek at home until they reached school age – and everything about their restaurant reflects authenticity to traditional Greek cuisine. They also have roots in the restaurant trade; Alex’s uncle owns the famed Elias’ Corner in Astoria and Olga’s father, George, who ran several successful diners, is a constant presence in Neraki’s kitchen. Olga’s mom makes the baklava and several other delicious desserts.

But we’re getting ahead of ourselves. Dessert comes last. What comes first, and what has many customers becoming regulars, are the meals of freshly prepared Mediterranean specialties.

Every table gets started with a plate of pita and tzatziki, a spread made with cucumber and yogurt. A larger portion can be ordered as an appetizer, though we prefer the tirokafteri ($7), a spicy spread of feta cheese and hot peppers. Other spreads include traditional hummus ($6), taramalsalata ($6), a fluffy pink carp roe mousse with lemon and olive oil, and melitzanosalata ($6), a roasted eggplant spread.

The gotta-try appetizers are for heartier appetites, though a pair of them with a salad can serve as a meal. Octapodi ($13), char-grilled tender octopus, is a must. Kalamari ($12), pan-fried floured squid, likewise is tender and expertly, if simply prepared. We frequently enjoy Loukaniko ($10), traditional Greek sausage with a lemony kick, or a plate of grilled vegetable slices ($8) served with tzatziki spread.

We seem to always order the Greek salad ($7, $10), a traditional medley of the basics topped with Neraki’s authentic creamy feta and thick house-made dressing. We can also be talked into the salad traditionally served in Greek homes: horiatiki ($9), a chunky mix of tomatoes, cucumber, onions and feta.

For entrees, we almost always choose seafood and generally rely on Alex’s suggestion. After all, he’s the guy who hand picks the fish at market. Most are grilled whole and served with lemon, just as in a Greek seaside village. Servers are skilled at deboning the fish, and will do so tableside. Choose Sinagrida (red snapper, $25) or Tsipoura (porgy, $19) for its lean, moist texture and mild flavor, or striped bass ($24) for a gamier flavor.

Also on the must-try list, scallops ($23) are lightly floured, pan-fried and absolutely surprising for their sweetness – so much so that no sauce is necessary. Just eat and enjoy.

A new addition to the menu, a seafood medley ($42) is suitable for two, though a hearty appetite could put one away solo. The platter is composed of broiled flounder, shrimp and scallops with a crabmeat-stuffed tomato half and Brazilian lobster tail. The lobster tail is simply delicious and Neraki’s crab stuffing (try the crabcake special when it’s on the menu) is meaty and, it goes without saying, authentic.

That’s what enticed us to try a skirt steak and crabcake special recently. The steak was tender and flavorful, and the crabcake never fails to please. And while we always go for the seafood, that simple grilling seems to bring out the best in meat entrees such as lamb chops ($26) and strip steak ($24).

Save a little room because desserts are housemade, traditional Greek specialties. As with most else at Neraki, we rely on the server’s suggestion and have yet to be disappointed.

Casual, family friendly, healthy even, Neraki is open Tuesday through Sunday from lunch hour on. A welcome addition to Huntington village, this one, as the fishermen say, is a keeper.

NERAKI
Greek Mediterranean Grill
273 Main Street, Huntington
631-385-3474
Cuisine: authentic Greek seafood and specialties, simply prepared.
Atmosphere: casual, family-friendly.
Price range: moderate.