FOODIE
Greek... Just 4,000 Miles West Of Athens
By Pete & Rosie/ foodie@longislandernews.com

There are more than 1400 islands in the Aegean and Ionian Seas off the coast of Greece… and only one in Commack.

Tucked into a corner of a Commack strip mall, the Athenian Greek Taverna is like another Greek isle. The owners of this popular ethnic eatery boast on their website that they’re conveniently located just “4,000 miles west of Athens.” In fact, it is conveniently located – at least for anyone on this side of the world who’s looking for an authentic Greek meal and not looking to shell out a lot of drachmas. This family-owned restaurant was started in 1992 as a yogurt and salad bar, but quickly expanded as customers responded to the introduction of authentic Greek dishes.

Athenian Greek Taverna is small, and patrons at the fewer than 20 tables can easily get to know the folks at the next table over. That’s OK though; it’s a friendly place and close quarters simply make for a family-like atmosphere.

The restaurant is as authentic as it gets on this side of the Aegean. There are the usual Greek specialties – Gyros, Souvlaki, Falafel and Kabobs – at which they excel. Sandwiches –warm pita bread stuffed with lettuce, tomato, red onion and a choice of dressings – go by the names of gods and goddesses. For the Lamb Gyro ($8), ask for the Zeus; Apollo is Grilled Chicken Souvlaki ($8); and Plato is Beef Souvlaki ($8). For vegetarians, the Falafel ($9) or Greek Pizza ($9) offer alternatives. Equivalent platters range from $12 to $15 and are served with soup or salad, and rice or potato.

Athenian Greek Taverna’s chefs shine at preparing the restaurant’s specialties.
Our favorite meal starts with the Pekelia ($9), a generous sampler of hummus, feta cheese, tarama, stuffed grape leaves, babaganouge and olives, and served with warm pita bread. Any can be ordered alone (Hummus $6, Babaganouge $6, Dolmathakia, or grape leaves with rice, $6).

Hot appetizers are an extensive list and include Manitaria, Mushroom in Cognac ($5), Spanakopita, or spinach pie ($6); and the exotic sounding (only because they’re still untried by us) Locagnico, or Greek Sausage ($6) or Saganaki, a plate of broiled Greek cheese ($7). On a recent visit, the Roasted Feta ($7) from the specials menu was a tasty slab of the briny Greek Cheese topped with grape tomato halves and roasted red peppers. Presentation would have been improved by removing the dish from the foil it was roasted in (as we did at the table), but the tasty combination of salt and sweet was a worthwhile treat.

Soups at Taverna are homemade. Avgolemeno, the traditional Greek lemon soup was creamy, tangy and tummy warming – a bit of black pepper added tableside spiced it up. A specialty is the lentil soup, combining lentils, fresh vegetables and thousands of years of tradition.

No meal at Athenian Greek Taverna would be complete without the House Greek Salad (small $7, large $8), and if one doesn’t come with your entree, order it on the side. No surprises in the salad, but the house dressing is so good they ought to sell it by the bottle, and in fact they do. The feta is the real deal, and the ingredients are always fresh.

Greece being an island, their chefs know their way around the seafood grill. It’s no wonder that some of Taverna’s finest offerings are from the sea. The O’Psaras, a pairing of broiled freshwater bass and Tilapia, offered as a special, was enhanced by the flavorful scampi sauce. More than the usual butter and lemon, Taverna’s scampi is flavorful – not too spicy, but enhanced by a generous amount of red pepper.

Chicken dishes are a tummy-warming treat at Taverna; try the Akrata, a breast stuffed with spinach and feta ($12); or Kota Me Kapari, a breast with artichokes and capers in a white wine sauce ($14).

Taverna packs a lot into its two-page menu, and portions are generous – no… colossal! Bring an appetite, and a love of things Greek.

Athenian Greek Taverna
2187 Jericho Turnpike
Commack
631-499-7660
www.atheniangreektaverna.com

Cuisine: simple and authentic Greek

Atmosphere: family friendly, casual Greek Atmosphere

Priced: inexpensive to moderate

Hours: open seven days;
11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Main Menu