FOODIE
Artisanal Sensibilities At Asta Café
By Pete, Rosie and
Will/ foodie@longislandernews.com
High above the bar at Huntington’s
Asta Wine Café hangs a large painting of a reclining
nude. A classic subject in a classic pose, the artful placement
is reminiscent of a Parisian Café. The study is the
work of owner Stephanie Yovino’s grandfather, painted
when he was an art student in New York during the 1940s. It
hung for decades in his bedroom, until Yovino opened her wine
and cheese café in Huntington last month.
The painting is just one of the touches that make a visit
to Asta like a visit to the home of an old friend. Art on
the walls, a comfortable dining room, the friendly and welcoming
staff, even a few family recipes on the menu give Asta a warm
and welcoming personality. And everything from the room’s
décor to the presentation of food is a reflection of
that personality.
It would be tough for Iovino’s personality not to shine
through. An art student who later studied business, she’s
created a place that employs both interests. But it’s
the artist’s touch that gives Asta its appeal. Located
on Huntington’s Main Street, Asta’s high-ceilinged
room with exposed brick and original pressed tin ceiling is
made modern with contemporary lacquered seating, high backed
banquettes and strategically placed lighting.
Yovino’s vision for a gallery where local artists could
display their work is manifested on a large wall that runs
the length of the restaurant.
The art extends to the menu as well. Conceived as a place
for social gatherings where folks can enjoy light foods and
enjoy the art on the walls, Asta is reminiscent of the wine
and cheese restaurants of the 1970s, where a couple on a date
or a group of friends could enjoy conversation while picking
at cheese platters.
Given the setting, it almost goes without saying that the
platters feature artisanal cheeses. There are four platters
offered, each featuring cheeses of a different country and
named after a famous artist from that country. Each is served
with seasonal fruit and an assortment of fresh breads and
crackers. A small serves two; large serves four.
The Cezanne (small $18, large $24) is French, with Morbier,
Munster, Goat Cheese and Comte, and served with a mango chutney.
From Italy, the Da Vinci platter ($18, $24) features Mozzarella
di Bufala, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Caciotta al Tartufo and Cacciocavallo,
with garlic bread, olive oil and grapes. Representing the
United States, the O’Keefe platter ($16, $22) serves
up Asiago, Wisconsin Gorgonzola, Vella Dry Jack and Vermont
Cheddar with fruit, bread and crackers. We tried the El Greco
platter and were introduced to four cheeses from Spain: Idiazabel
was reminiscent of parmigiana; red-rinded Mahon was smooth
and nutty; and Roncal was on the mild side. The star was Cabrales,
a creamy Spanish blue cheese.
The portion of the menu called “Artistic Treats”
includes a classic Smoked Salmon on Dark Rye with Cream Cheese
and Chives ($11); Warm Brie with Fruit ($11); and for those
who might bring a heartier appetite to the table, there’s
a trio of Mini Hamburgers with assorted cheeses ($10).
All of Asta’s offerings are served artfully, on simple
white china, and chef Luke Wallace uses food like a painter
does a palette. One almost doesn’t want to spoil the
arrangements by digging in, but we didn’t hold back
for long.
If Asta’s menu has a centerpiece, it’s the fondues.
If you’re old enough, think of it as nostalgia food.
If not, just enjoy a new foodie experience. The menu features
four cheese fondues, each custom made following recipes developed
by Yovino and her chef. Wallace starts each with a swirl of
wine and slowly adds cornstarch-dredged cheese and flavorings.
Each candle-warmed fondue pot is ringed with an assortment
of appropriate chunked breads, fruits and vegetables for dipping,
and a side dish of sirloin chunks ($8) is available.
The classic Swiss ($24) is made slightly sweet with a dash
of cherry Kirsch. Cheddar Pub Fondue ($26) is a hearty dip
flavored with beer and Worcestershire; Raspberry and Creamy
Havarti Swirl Fondue ($34), served with melons, grapes, cubed
pound cake and French baguette seems to fall somewhere closer
to the dessert fondue, while the Classic Chocolate Fondue
($28) goes all the way. Spearing strawberries or pound cake
and rolling them in molten chocolate is a recipe for ecstasy.
Asta dessert offerings include Fresh Strawberries topped with
Zabaglione ($9) ; Raspberry glazed seasonal fruit ($9); and
the Chocolate Mousse ($9), a rich and creamy treat shot with
cognac and topped with homemade whipped cream. One of Asta’s
homey touches, it’s made by Stephanie’s mom. The
Asta formula is catching on. Tables were filled during our
Friday night visit and a crowd of hip-looking 20- to 30-somethings
were gathered. The wine list is predominantly Long Island
varietals, but a handful of top-quality bottles were recently
added. A peppery 2001 Lenz Cabernet Sauvignon ($13/$50) makes
a suitable accompaniment to the heartier dishes; the 2005
Corey Creek Gewurztraminer ($14/$52), a clean and fruity white,
could pair with the lighter offerings.
Whether it’s for a touch of nostalgia, or a modern-day
treat, Asta is a treat, and sure to become a favorite.
Asta Wine Café
& Art Gallery
335 Main St • Huntington
631-271-2345 • www.asta1.com
Cuisine: Artisan cheeses
and fondues paired with top quality wines
Atmosphere: Casual but sophisticated gallery setting
Priced: Moderate
Hours: Wednesday through Friday from 5 p.m.; Saturday
gallery hours start at 1 p.m., table service at 5p.m. Sunday
brunch 11:30 a.m. - 3:30 p.m.
Main
Menu
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