FOODIE
A Restrospective For The Foodies’ Anniversary By Pete and Mike/ foodie@longislandernews.com

It’s been six months since we introduced the Foodie Section to our newspapers, to bring readers news and reviews of the food world in what we consider to be the restaurant capital of Long Island. Our six month-Foodie journey has been both exciting and enlightening. Like all students of food, we are constantly tasting, trying and learning. It’s been an education from day one.

To mark our anniversary, we thought it would be an excellent time to taste some of the highlights of our Foodie half-year. We’ve consciously made an effort to sample many different styles of cooking from every corner of the town — we’ve even ventured outside of town. We’ve tasted some of the best that Huntington has to offer, from home style cooking to haute cuisine, from ethnic to American, and in every price range. The loosely organized sampler that follows highlights the most memorable of our experiences. Fellow foodies undoubtebly will have opinions of your own.

IN THE BEGINNING…
…there was Tom Schaudel.
Long Island’s version of New York City celebrity chef Mario Batali, Schaudel had recently brought his Cheffie version of a Midas touch to Finley’s of Greene Street, which, until their collaborative Rockfish (34 Green Street, Huntington 631-351-3440) opened, was best know for a near-infinite variety of beers. We knew that by introducing our Foodie section with a Rockfish review, we were starting high upon the food chain. His exploration of the undersea world brought unexpected pairings to our plates. (“Who would think to put together mangoes and tuna?” we asked.) Rockfish spanned the globe in a single swoop with its Kung Po Calamari, and the voodoo sauce that accompanied our tender catfish was as memorable for its taste as it was for its name.

It wasn’t until we visited Trattoria Grasso (134 Main Street, Cold Spring Harbor 631-367-6060) that we learned that the true Foodie experience involves all the senses. Our meal at Grasso, as Gail now calls the restaurant, was a memorable confluence that satisfied all the senses: taste through Chef Tony Canales’ sophisticated artistry; touch through his attention to texture; smell through – well, it goes without saying; sight by the warm décor; and hearing by way of resident musical director Ernie Byrd’s talented performance as part of a jazz trio. We’re anxious to return and see how renovations that were underway in spring turned out, and what the new menu brings.

We can’t mention the northern Italian experience without jumping directly to Jonathan’s (15 Wall Street, Huntington 631-549-0055) where owner Roberto Oronato has for years earned high marks from critics and repeat visits from customers. We quickly learned why. The success of Jonathan’s could easily be due to the menu alone – but we attributed it to that “perfect storm” of factors – food, ambience, attentive wait staff and that all important comfort factor. Oronato guided us through a remarkable evening with a signature gentle touch. His comfortable restaurant reflects his own warmth, and his menu reflects a lifelong love of food and an approach that’s both serious and playful. Ahi tuna eaters, we tried a blackened yellow fin served with a complex avocado compote that offset the subtle heat of the blackened tuna. Another surprise – pumpkin ravioli with butter and sage was sprinkled with Amaretto cookie dust — was pure magic.

Our Foodie spirits also soared on one of our ventures out of town to The Mansion at the Woodlands (1 Southwoods Road, Woodbury 516-921-5707), where owner H. Singh has given Chef David Salony an elegant setting in which to practice his art. It’s worth a visit just to enjoy a meal in a Gold Coast mansion; it’s Salony’s artistry that will have you coming back. It was there we discovered Diver Scallops (served with toasted gnocchi and a foie gras corn emulsion and white truffle oil. Wow!

The Foodies’ year had so many high points it’s difficult to list them.

We discovered how much culinary artistry one can pack into an intimate setting at Katherine Catenzaro’s Restaurant Mazzi (493 E. Jericho Tpke, Huntington 631-421-3390). Her Veal Involitini combined prosciutto, Asiago cheese, a Shitaki mushroom Marsala wine sauce and buttered pappardelle.

We were dazzled by just how high the culinary bar can go at Aix En Provence (134 New York Avenue, Huntington 631-549-3338), where an eight-course tasting menu called the Foodies’ name. There the foie gras flies high, but it was the Duckling Comfit – an elaborately prepared French specialty – that put this spot in a class by itself.

We also discovered a playfully hip hideaway at The Blue Room (93 Larkfield Road, East Northport, 631-261-5761). Anastasia Barbatsoulis and Nicholas Litterello earned a rave for their charming atmosphere, skillful cooking and playful presentation (try the Popcorn Crawfish) and impeccable musical selections. We added our own accolades to the New York Times’ “Excellent” rating.

Equally high up on both the musical and culinary scales is Huntington’s Solo (15 Wall Street, Huntington 631-549-0055), a hoppin’ hip spot that caters to varied tastes, satisfying all.

Huntington made it onto the Island’s steakhouse map with the opening of Mac’s Steakhouse (12 Gerard Street, Huntington 631-549-5300) early this year. An impeccably detailed creation of Fabio Machado, Piero Casalicchio and their Restar restaurant group, which includes such well-known eateries as Bistro Cassis, Bistro Citron, Pomodoro and Pomodorino. Memorable for, well, its steaks (one Foodie recalls fondly the cowboy cut rib eye), Mac’s excels in atmosphere, service, and were told, a wine list that rivals the best.

Don’t think the Foodies only head uptown to eat. Our six months have included numerous stops in the more affordable range. Our reviewers sampled most of the menu at Canterbury Ales (314 New York Avenue, Huntington 631-549-4404) – something most residents have spent half a lifetime doing – but were taken with the comfortable English Pub atmosphere created by owner Billy Hoest and his crew. Likewise, Commack’s Jackson’s (6005 Jericho Turnpike, Commack 631-462-0822)- the new incarnation of Blue Oyster Grille, was as fun as a candy store, with an equally playful approach to cooking. Also high up on the “fun” scale, Northport’s Sea Shanty was a great place to visit.

For down home flavors, the Foodies turned their sights toward local legend Juanita Cooke’s Cooke’s Inn (767 New York Avenue, Huntington 631-424-2181), and the newly opened Hog House Barbeque (200 West Jericho Turnpike, Huntington Station 631-271-2400), where ribs and southern style barbeque reign.

The Foodies charted the ethnic food map as well, stopping to give three “kampais” – Japanese for “cheers,” to Huntington’s least-kept sushi secret Kura Barn (479 New York Avenue, Huntington 631-673-0060); to party at the festive Viva Juan (441 East Main Street, Centerport 631-261-2851); and dining like sultan’s at Sitar (665 West Jericho Turnpike, Huntington 631-271-8600). We explored the strictly American fare at Gary Cicerello’s Indigo American Grille (70 Gerard Street, Huntington 631-424-7757) and are looking forward to see equal culinary successes in the soon-to-be-introduced all new menu. (Remember, you heard it here first.)

MORE TO COME
The good news is that the Foodies have only scratched the surface. While 25 weeks of restaurant reviews have given – we think – a fairly thorough overview of some of the dining experiences out there for food fans, we’re the first to realize that we’ve only just begun. We know that for every restaurant we’ve enjoyed, there are dozens more we haven’t tried. New menus are being introduced; chefs are exploring new cuisines and experimenting to bring new experiences to your palate.

We’re looking forward to see what experiences the next half a year brings. Keep your suggestions coming by e-mailing foodie@longislandernews.com; read past reviews on our website longislandernews.com; and when you dine out… tell them The Foodies sent you.

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