Vitae Breathes New Life Into Restaurant Scene
By The Foodies./ foodie@longislandernews.com

Even before the arrival of spring there were signs of new life on the Huntington restaurant scene. Transactions, new openings and several restaurants in the works indicate that all is well in the dining capital of Long Island.

Perhaps the biggest spring bloom cropped up at the former Abel Conklin’s where Vitae Restaurant and Wine Bar last week quietly opened the doors. The exterior of the circa 1841 building gives little indication of the renovations that have transformed the one-time steakhouse to a vibrant player on the Huntington restaurant and night scenes. Owner Linda Rehnstedt has an obvious flair for design and has put together a cutting-edge interior that is luxurious without being off-putting. It’s cool and modern, and at the same time warm and sensual. The space is divided roughly in half. On the one side, the roomy cocktail lounge glows with an alluring backlit bar of honey-toned onyx. On the other side, the dining room is rich with textured walls in metallic shades of bronze, copper and gold, and comfy brown leather banquettes.

Vitae derives from the Latin word for life, and with this stunningly beautiful interior, it would appear Rehnstedt has breathed new life into this restaurant location. But the beautiful interiors are just the beginning. Rehnstedt has put together a top notch team to deliver the rest – fine food and exceptional service.

In the kitchen, Executive Chef Lawrence Palladino has designed a 40-dish menu of beautifully presented, wine-friendly Continental cuisine. Among the more than a dozen appetizers ($7 - $13) one will find soups and salads but also pan-seared Maryland crab cakes with lobster remoulade; crispy stuffed portobello mushrooms with fresh mozzarella, basil, roasted peppers, marinara and shaved Parmesan; and a signature crispy beef short rib croquettes with red wine demi and crème fraiche. Entrees ($19 - $36) include steaks and chops, pasta, chicken, seafood and sides. Highlights include a pan-roasted Berkshire cut pork chop with sautéed onions, cherry peppers, artichoke hearts and Yukon gold potatoes; pan-seared scallops with shrimp and chorizo paella in a smoked paprika butter sauce; as well as a with a signature Chicken Lawrence, a French cut breast with sliced hot and sweet sausage, roasted potatoes, cherry peppers and onions. Dessert selections ($8 - $10) feature a signature trio of crème brulee.
The Foodies’ visit came too early for a review, but we will tell you that Chef Palladino – whose resume includes stints at Brooklyn’s River Café, Manhattan’s Contrapunto, and locally, Jacksons and Sweet Mama’s knows his way around the spice rack, and he isn’t afraid to use it. Look forward to hearty, flavorful fare that’s beautifully presented.

The menu is designed to be wine-friendly and with General Manager John Estevez (Bin 56, Gatsby’s, The Iberian) at the helm, the wine room is in capable hands. The gracious Estevez has put together a wine list of 100+ international selections by the bottle ($30 - $1200) with 25 wines by the glass ($8 - $17).

Despite the soft opening, foodies found their way to Vitae. Opening week saw the place come to life with a lively bar scene, great aromas, and the chatter of a happy restaurant crowd filling the room.

Vitae Restaurant and Wine Bar
54 New Street, Huntington
631-385-1919
www.vitaeli.com
Cuisine: High end Continental
Atmosphere: luxurious
and comfortable
Price range: moderately pricey
Hours: Mon. – Thurs.,
4 p.m. – 10 p.m.;
Friday & Saturday,
4 p.m. – 11 p.m.;
Sunday,
2 p.m. – 9 p.m.