FOODIE
2010: A Year Of Delectable Dining
By The Foodies / foodie@longislandernews.com

The year 2010 marked another year of fine dining in Huntington. We welcomed newcomers to the scene, revisited some of our favorites, and watched local restaurateurs reinvent themselves, their menus and their restaurants to maintain a competitive edge. Cold Spring Harbor’s Harbor Mist and Commack’s Perfecto Mundo dazzled us with beautiful settings and unique cuisine, while local staples like Osteria da Nino and Bistro Cassis continued their tradition of excellence. We also saw some favorites, like Blond, close their doors.
As we look back on 2010 (and our mouths begin to water), we’re sharing some of the highlights of our foodie adventures.

Perfecto Mundo
Culinary Institute of America graduates Liz Keschl and Steven Del Lima have produced a winning recipe in Perfecto Mundo in Commack (1141-1 Jericho Turnpike, Commack, 631-864-2777, www.perfectomundony.com), which opened in the fall.
Del Lima, who created Wild Fin and was chef at Black & Blue Seafood Chophouse, works the kitchen and Keschl runs the front of the house. With a focus on Central and South American cuisine, Del Lima’s menu – much of which is gluten free – also draws from European, Asian and other influences.
A favorite is the Flash-Fried Ancho Chile Calamari ($12). Another winner is the Steamed North Atlantic Mussels ($12) in an amazing broth with Portuguese sausage, sweet onions, red chiles, saffron and chardonnay. A clear standout is the Chipotle-Orange BBQ Glazed Tilapia ($19), made with black rice, two-cabbage slaw, mandarin-mango-orange salsa and coconut-lime emulsion. The steaks area also top notch.
The Latin fusion concept is even incorporated into the desserts. Baked Plantain Crème Brulee ($6) has all the makings of a traditional crème brulee with bits of plantain in the mix.

Harbor Mist
With its extensive seafood menu, attention to detail and fresh ingredients, Harbor Mist (105 Harbor Road/Route 25A, Cold Spring Harbor, 631-659-3888, http://harbormistrestaurant.com), which opened this year, is bringing a new culinary breeze into Cold Spring Harbor. Hosts Barman and Michelle Sharifi are both veterans of the restaurant business, and chef Terrence Cave’s menu draws inspiration from all corners of the Mediterranean, from Spain through Italy and to Turkey.
With tender fish and a mild avocado puree, Cornmeal-Dusted Calamari ($10), offers a new take on the classic. Enticing pastas include Linguine in Clam Sauce ($18) and a Truffle Wild Mushroom Risotto with Parmesan and truffle shavings ($22).
Harbor Mist offers a variety of steak, lamb, chicken and veal for meat lovers, and their work with fruta del mar excels. With an eye for local suppliers, Cave’s Caramelized Sea Scallops ($24) are superb – delightfully tender in a sage brown butter sauce that is loaded with flavor thanks to homegrown spices.

Fado
Bringing a new foreign flavor to Huntington village, Fado (10 New St., Huntington, 631-351-1010) has quickly made its presence known.
When Eduardo Nobre decided to open a Portuguese eatery with his wife, Alison, Eduardo called home to Portugal to enlist the help of his parents, Elvira and Eduardo. The pair owned a restaurant in Portugal and were a big help in getting Fado off the ground.
Chourico Na Brasa ($9) is a show in and of itself – the server sparks a fire and roasts sausage tableside. The cod is excellent, as are the meat dishes, and the homemade flan is out of this world.
They also offer one of the best lunch deals in town - the Lisbon Lunch is a choice of marinated chicken breast, jumbo shrimp or bitoque for about $10, with house salad and a choice of chips, mashed potatoes, cabbage rice or fries.

Bistro 44
Northport’s Bistro 44 (44 Main St., Northport, 631-262-9744) returned earlier this year after a short hiatus. In March, with the Gallowitsch family at the helm, interior renovations were complete and Northport native Emanuel Karropoulos unveiled a New American menu to bring a new flavor to Northport’s restaurant scene.
Ale-Steamed Maine Mussels ($11) are prepared with garlic, white ale shallots and topped with a piece of crustini. Consider the Bouillabaisse ($27) for a main course, which offers clams, mussels, shrimp, whitefish and julienne vegetables served in a charred tomato saffron broth. The tender and flavorful Bistro 44 Marinated Skirt Steak ($25) is a must-have for meat lovers.

Sapsuckers
The newest eatery from Nino Antuzzi, who also owns Huntington’s Red and Osteria Da Nino, Sapsuckers Hops & Grub (286 Main St., Huntington village, 631-683-4945) features high-quality brews and all-American comfort food. In season, they get organic microgreens and eggs from Huntington’s own Makinajian Poultry Farm, artesian breads and small farm-raised beef, pork and poultry.
The cozy, spacious bar and with Audubon bird illustration-bedecked dining room, designed by chef de cuisine Kelley Danek sets the scene for the cuisine. Spicy Shrimp Gumbo ($10) has an authentic Cajun kick without being overwhelming. Try it with Speakeasy’s smooth, fruity White Lightning wheat beer, one of dozens available. Warm, filling Potato Pierogis ($9), served with sour cream and caramelized onions, fit the season wonderfully.

Bistro Cassis
Bistro Cassis (55B Wall Street, Huntington, 631-421-4122, www.bistrocassis.com) has brought classic French to Huntington for almost a decade. The restaurant, owned and operated by Reststar Hospitality Group, is managed by Gabriel Garcia, and with chef David Bonilla, the pair provide a charming dining experience.
Nowhere else can you get La Soupe Gratinée à l’Oignon ($8), onion soup with crouton and cheese gratin, as good as at Cassis. French staples are excellent, like Escargots Maître d’Hôtel ($9). The mussels are exceptional.
For dinner, we recommend Coquilles St. Jacques et Crevettes ($27) is a delicious plate full of pan-seared scallops and shrimp served with fricassee of leeks, oyster mushrooms, and corn in a truffle cream sauce. Magret de Canard au Cassis ($25) is also a winner – duck breast and leg confit. When dessert comes around, go for the chocolate cake. It’s nearly a soufflé.

Nisen Sushi
At Nisen Sushi (5032 Jericho Turnpike, Commack, 631-462-1000; 7967 Jericho Turnpike, Woodbury, 516-496-7000; www.nisensushi.com), dishes are presented with such flair, attention to detail and artistic value, it’s a shame the chef doesn’t sign his name on his masterpieces.
Recent renovations in Commack, inspired by the Woodbury location, have created a hip, glitzy interior, with a modern dining area of tables and individual booths surrounded by open eggshell-like borders, a sleek sushi bar and spacious alcohol bar.
The menu is rife with variety and specialty appetizers, sashimi, sushi rolls and entrees, and the specials are always enticing. Lobster Tacos ($14) and the Yellowtail Jalapeño ($15) are standout appetizers. Nisen excels at spicy tuna anything, and the Crispy Spicy Tuna Gyoza ($12), served with guacamole, spicy aioli and truffle oil, is no exception to that rule.
A must-have are the Oreos friend in funnel cake batter served with creamy vanilla Tahitian ice cream ($10).

Crew
The former Aix en Provence became Crew (134 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-549-3338, www.crewli.com) over a year ago, and their move from exclusively French fare allows owner Mitch Hauser, a product of French culinary school, to offer additional varieties of cuisine.
Crew has an extensive wine, beer and cocktail menu. Appetizers, ranging from $8 to $14, shine and include tender, mellow crab cakes ($13) sumptuous Foie Gras ($20) and cool, vibrant Gazpacho ($8).
Beef shank ($28) is fall-off-the-bone tender and bursts with an all-American home-style flavor that comes only after a slow roast. The pork chop, with tropical fruit, baby bok choy and a black currant demi, is tender and boasts a summery Asian twist.
Chocolate gelato is homemade and a must.

Bin 56
Intimate, trendy and off the main stretch of Huntington, Bin 56 (56 Stewart Ave., Huntington, 631-812-0060, www.bin56 .com) fits anywhere into your foodie schedule, as a tapas restaurant featuring wine, martinis and a full bar.
Roasted asparagus with thinly cut Serrano ham and truffle oil aioli ($7) is delicious, but our favorite dish is the poached figs ($6), stuffed with herb goat cheese and topped with what Bin 56 describes as balsamic syrup. The spice seared lamb chops ($12) are an absolute must, not only for the tender meat, but the sweet tomato jam served alongside it.

Bad Dawgs
Sometimes, it’s good to be bad.
At Bad Dawgs (44 Gerard St., Huntington village, 631-923-1201, www.baddawgsli.com), hot dogs are king. Pick from the menu, which boasts items like the Chihuahua Dawg ($3.49) if you’re looking for a little kick. Dressed in nacho cheese, real bacon, raw white onion and jalapeno peppers, it dresses up the hot dog with spice and flair. Fans of Chicago-style dogs should check out the Bassett Hound with its six toppings.
Have another idea for dressing up? Order a Bad Dawg for $3.49 and pick your four favorite toppings out of a generous list of 28.