FOODIE

A Wonderful World At Perfecto Mundo

It comes as no surprise to us that two Culinary Institute of America graduates produced a winning recipe when they teamed up to create Perfecto Mundo in Commack.

Despite having known each other less than a year, the partnership between Liz Keschl and Steven Del Lima seems to come naturally, as if it were created in a “perfect world.” The two met in January, took over the space formerly home to Maize Cantina about six months later, and by September had opened Perfecto Mundo. Del Lima, who created Wild Fin and was chef at Black & Blue Seafood Chophouse, both in Huntington, works the kitchen and Keschl runs the front of the house, giving hungry diners unique and delicious Latin fusion cuisine that is nothing short of brilliant.

What is Latin fusion, you ask? With a focus on Central and South American cuisine, Del Lima’s menu also draws from European, Asian and other influences. A good example is a special during our visit: Grilled Salmon and Goat Cheese “Burrito” en Croute ($24) with chilled cucumber salad, roasted Campari tomato and jalapeno salsa, and chipotle aioli.

“It’s a matter of taking things from different countries and making it work,” Keschl said.

Perfecto Mundo does more than just make it work, though; they excel.

The restaurant is a main draw of Commack’s Northgate Shopping Center. Sit at one of the tables and sweet, smooth salsa and tri-colored chips will soon be on your table. With a glass of Perfecto’s Secret Sangria ($7) in your hand, excellent in either white or red, you’re set to order.

Guacamole ($8) is a popular menu item, with smashed Hass avocados, red onion, fresh lime, cilantro and Tabasco. A special on the night of our visit, Smoked Chicken and Poblano Soup ($8), prepared with roasted sweet corn, black beans, bell pepper and tortilla strips, is delicious and warms you to the core. The bell pepper adds a real kick that is complemented nicely by the sweet corn.

A favorite at our table (and many other tables, we heard) was the Flash-Fried Ancho Chile Calamari ($12). This dish is an absolute must. Made with battered and fried tender calamari in a sweet and spicy glaze and topped with toasted peanut, the Thai influence was clear.

Another winner was the Steamed North Atlantic Mussels ($12). A unique take on a seafood staple, these Prince Edward Island shellfish come in a delicate broth with linguica (a flavorful Portuguese sausage), sweet onions, red chiles, saffron and chardonnay. Soak up the broth with the toasted ciabatta and you’re all set.

For something you definitely can’t get anywhere else – and that realm is where Del Lima really shines – go for the Grilled Sweet Potato Pancake ($9). On a fluffy sweet potato pancake sit barbecue pulled pork, roasted corn, Fuji apple pieces, Hass avocado, green onion, roasted golden pepper crema and Cotija cheese. With this combination of flavors, you taste a little something more in every bite.

The clear standout among our entrees was the Chipotle-Orange BBQ Glazed Tilapia ($19), made with black rice, two-cabbage slaw, mandarin-mango-orange salsa and coconut-lime emulsion. Both the glaze and the salsa are sweet with a hint of spice, while the black rice has a deep, nutty flavor that pairs perfectly with the fish.
The Grilled Marinated Black Angus Skirt Steak ($23) comes sliced and topped with roasted pepper chimichurri, an Argentine marinade. Dipped in the house-made banana steak sauce, which has the kick of your typical steak sauce with a hint of banana, it’s a great take on steak. We could have eaten the accompanying fried yucca all night long.

Ancho Chili Glazed Jumbo Shrimp “Tostada” ($23) comes atop a crisp corn tortilla. The huge shrimp are topped with red cabbage slaw, grape tomato-avocado salsa, lime-cumin crema and pineapple hot sauce. Del Lima packs a lot of flavor in this dish, and all of them work well together.

The Latin fusion concept is even incorporated into the desserts. Baked Plantain Crème Brulee ($6) has all the makings of a traditional crème brulee with bits of plantain in the mix. A special cheesecake the evening of our visit was a creamy and decadent Bananas Foster flavor.

It’s clear that Del Lima, who has Portugal in his blood, put a great deal of research into creating his menu. Not only is the combination of flavors complex and immensely satisfying, much of the menu is also gluten-free to accommodate those with wheat allergies. All of our entrees as well as most of our appetizers were gluten-free.
“Celiac disease is on the rise, and people want gluten-free menus, but they still want good food,” said Del Lima, who truly followed his heart when he decided to pursue a career in food. He gave up a full scholarship to play football at Boston College to train as a chef.

“I’m a food geek. It’s my passion,” he said.

The place is child-friendly as well, with a $7 menu that includes chicken fingers, pasta, pizza, sliders and tacos. Add live music on the weekends and Perfecto Mundo’s got it all.
Perfecto!