FOODIE

Welcome To The 1950s

Follow the flags at 535 Broad Hollow Road and you'll find yourself in the 1950s, when James Dean stole women's hearts, "I Love Lucy" left viewers in stitches and going to the drive-in in a hot rod was the ultimate definition of "cool."

Melville eatery Happy Times Café brings that era back to life. Located in a building home to mostly business offices, it serves up cheap breakfasts and quick lunches in a setting that leaves you smiling.

Enter the door on the north side of the building and you're transported back in time. Large era-appropriate posters and ads hang on the walls; walk under "Elvis Presley Blvd.," pass a photo of Audrey Hepburn, and find yourself on "Boop-oop-a-doop Dr." Inside the restaurant, black-and-white checkered tiles, red chairs and booths, bright blue walls and ceiling-to-floor painted murals of scenes from the 1950s make you feel like you're part of a scene from "Grease." A Marilyn Monroe clock tells you the time, and old advertisements for Corn Flakes and Corvettes leave you chuckling. The only clues you're not actually in the 1950s are the flat screen TV above the bar and the iPod connected to a large, authentic-looking jukebox.

The menu is reflective of the era, with burgers, grilled cheese, milkshakes, floats and sandwiches named after celebrities. Breakfast is served all day, and touches on it all - eggs, French toast with sausage or bacon ($5), breakfast burritos, buttermilk pancakes ($4.25 for three), home fries and omelets ($6-6.25). On top of that, there are always express breakfast specials; $5 gets you a coffee and egg sandwich with cheese and ham, sausage or bacon.

Chef Todd November, of Huntington, who works alongside chef Rob Russo, said the most popular item is grilled cheese ($4), but items like grilled chicken Caesar wrap and chili cheese dogs also sell well. November, who trained in Philadelphia in the '70s, recently joined the Happy Times team and is bringing his favorite flavors to the party. He is particular;y excited about his Philly cheese steak ($5.75) - "It's the best," he said - as well as his slow-cooked beef brisket and pulled pork.

On my recent lunch visit, I had a bowl of tummy-warming chicken and rice soup, obviously homemade due to the crunch and freshness of the vegetables, coupled with a delicious homemade chicken salad sandwich. Not too dry and not overwhelmed with mayonnaise, the chicken salad is perfect, abundant in shredded chicken. A strawberry milkshake filled me up and made me 1950s-era meal just right. I left humming the theme to "Happy Days."

Happy Times Café 535 Broad Hollow Road Melville 631-270-4836 www.happytimescafe.com
Atmosphere: Think "Happy Days" Cuisine: All-American lunch, breakfast served all day Price range: Inexpensive Hours: Mon.-Fri, 7 a.m.-4 p.m.

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