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FOODIE
The Return Of Bistro 44
By Danny Schrafel/foodie@longislandernews.com
Sometimes you have
to lose something to appreciate what you had. That’s
certainly the case with Northport’s Bistro 44, which
returned earlier this year after a short hiatus.
After hosting a restaurant or a pub of some form nearly a
quarter-century, 44 Main St.’s first rendition of Bistro
44 shut its doors in the fall of 2009. By March 25, with the
Gallowitsch family at the helm, interior renovations were
complete and Northport native Emanuel Karropoulos unveiled
the New American menu to bring a new flavor to Northport’s
restaurant scene.
Inside, a lot of the old décor – the tin ceiling,
wood floors and marble bar – remained in place and were
joined by international touches like English wallpaper and
German lights. The combination creates a warm, inviting and
jazzy interior – a dash of New Orleans, anyone? –
with a 50-seat patio awaiting al fresco diners.
At the bar, you’ll be greeted with carved radishes and
spices, a creative, light way to nibble while you wait without
loading up before dinner. That made way for Ale Steamed Maine
Mussels ($11) prepared with garlic, white ale shallots and
topped with a piece of crustini. Fresh, full of flavor but
not overwhelming, you won’t be able to get enough of
them. If you can’t, consider the Bouillabaisse ($27)
for a main course, which offers clams, mussels, shrimp, whitefish
and julienne vegetables served in a charred tomato saffron
broth. Or perhaps try the Coastal Water Tower ($48) which
boasts clams, mussels, shrimp oysters and crab legs.
For those more drawn to the turf side of things, the beautifully
presented, tender and flavorful Bistro 44 Marinated Skirt
Steak ($25) is a must-have for meat lovers. Sliced and presented
atop garlic thyme mashed potatoes with green beans and a tender,
mild Cipollini onion crowning the plate, it makes for a fulfilling,
satisfying plate. Ribeye steak ($28) is also available, as
are an enticing pork loin ($25), veal rib chop ($31) and domestic
rack of lamb ($29) selections.
Our Bistro 44 love affair continued with dessert and the French
Apple Tart, which balanced a warm, sweet fruit center with
cinnamon sugar, a flaky, buttery crust and sweet caramel drizzle
all around.
Chef Karropoulos’ kitchen boasts sustainable produce,
all-natural chicken and no seafood on the endangered species
list, and will work to meet dietary needs to make dishes vegetarian
and gluten-free. That way, nobody’s left out of this
great dining spot’s second coming.
Main
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