FOODIE

Light, Fresh Italian At Osteria da Nino

By Luann & Alex/foodie@longislandernews.com

Nobody is allowed to cook better Italian than your own grandma. But if you can't have her cooking, Nino Antuzzi is a solid bet.

The Sardinia-born Italian is a well known restaurateur in the area. After opening Red on New York Avenue in 2001, Antuzzi capitalized on an opportunity to bring fresh, rustic food from the motherland to Huntington village - Osteria da Nino came to Main Street in 2003.

Dim lighting and warm colors set the tone for the dining room. Elements of fine dining mix with Old World charm: an extensive selection of Italian wines, pots and pans hanging from the wall, new utensils between courses, a portrait of a Friar holding a glass of wine. A classic map of Italy hung next to our table, and it came in handy when Antuzzi gave us a history lesson on Sardinia and the different types of gnocchi.

Antuzzi's menu boats light, fresh Italian dishes from ravioli Bolognese to pollo balsamico. The specials are where Osteria da Nino really shines.

Manager Jeff Gucciardo's culinary knowledge and talent for pairing wine adds to a fine night out. He woke our palate with a glass of a light white wine, 2009 Corte Giara Pinot Grigio from Venezie ($8 glass/$30 bottle). He switched us to a 2009 Tasca D'Almerita Rosé from Sicily ($8/$30) to match a dish of prosciutto di parma and Black Mission figs over arugula with goat cheese ($12). We are not Rosé drinkers, but we enjoyed this wine: dry and not too sweet, it has an explosive note of strawberry and brought out the flavor of the figs and prosciutto.

Next up was Bufala mozzarella over organic beefsteak tomatoes and roasted peppers ($12). And we're talking real Bufala, as in made in Campania on Tuesday and served at Osteria de Nino by Thursday. Soft and creamy, there's nothing like it, especially when Gucciardo pours you a glass of 2009 Tremin Savignon Blanc Alto Adige ($10/$37) to go with it.

After hearing that the pasta is freshly cut at Osteria, ordering the fettuccine with Prince Edward Island mussels ($22) seemed the obvious choice. Antuzzi's white wine garlic broth didn't overpower the freshness of the mussels and pasta. A light and fresh dish, we quickly came to appreciate Antuzzi's delicate hand when it comes to garlic.

A perfectly cooked piece of Roasted Scottish salmon comes with Antuzzi's Sardinian eggplant caponata ($26). Unfortunately he doesn't (yet) jar and sell the caponata - a sweet mix including eggplant, onions, balsamic and sugar - but we're keeping our fingers crossed that one day we'll be able to have it at home. A glass of 2007 Cantina Castiadas Cannonau di Sardegna plays well off the sweetness of the caponata.

The star of the evening was the beef braciola ($24), tender beef stuffed with breadcrumbs, parmesan, prosciutto, walnut and raisin, served over ricotta gnocchi. Though the dish sounds heavy, with Antuzzi's touch it is actually rather light. The tomato sauce is fresh, the beef is so tender you can cut it with a fork, and the gnocchi almost floats. The flavorful stuffing is enhanced by a glass of 2008 Costera Argiolas Cannonau di Sardegna, darker and cooler than the Cantina Castiadas.

Dessert is heavenly. Amaretto tiramisu ($8) is light and fluffy, while a slice of ricotta cheesecake is served warm and topped with a mixed berry puree ($8). Both are a delightful way to end a meal.

Taste some of it all during Huntington Restaurant Week Oct. 10-17, where Osteria da Nino is one of over 60 restaurants offering a three-course prix-fixe menu for $24.95. And keep your eye

out for Antuzzi across the street at 287 Main Street, where he is poised to open Sapsuckers Hops & Grub at the former JD's.

Main Menu