FOODIE

Fado Brings Portugal To Huntington
By Danny & Amanda/foodie@longislandernews.com

Bringing a new foreign flavor to Huntington village, Fado, the newest resident of restaurant row, is quickly making a statement.

Located at the former home of Rio on New Street, the Portuguese eatery is named after a genre of music traced back to 1820s Portugal often characterized by mournful tales and lyrics often about the sea and longing for a loved one's safe return. Complete with fresh flowers and candles, it makes for a romantic atmosphere ideal for date night.

Attention to detail and presentation are evident throughout the Fado experience. You'll be welcomed by a dish of olives dressed in oil and garlic and fresh, warm bread presented in handmade bread bags. Eduardo Nobre, who owns Fado with his wife Alison, said it's keeping with tradition - almost every Portuguese kitchen door has a larger version of that bread bag hanging on the rear of the kitchen door, ready for the earliest riser to go to the market. The dining room has received a paint job and the photography is all from Portugal.

When he decided to open a restaurantt with his wife, Eduardo called home to Portugal to enlist the help of his parents, Elvira and Eduardo. The pair owned a restaurant in Portugal and has been a big help in getting Fado off the ground.

"No plate leaves the kitchen without her supervision," he said about his mother.

Chourico Na Brasa ($9) is a show in and of itself - suspended over high-proof alcohol in a ceramic dish, the server sparks a fire and roasts sausage tableside. You'll get to see the flames grow in intensity, hear the sausage crackle in the fire, feel the heat and smell the smoky treat that's being prepared. The end result is mild, crunchy on the outside, moist on the inside and not greasy at all.

Salada de Polvo ($10) - octopus salad - is tender and simply prepared, allowing the seafood flavor to shine as intended. Croquetes de Carne ($7) are classic comfort food - tender and savory on the inside, crunchy on the outside and good all over. Immensely satisfying Bolinhas de Arros ($7), golden-brown fried basmati and mountain goat cheese rice balls, are enhanced by the shallot cream sauce.

Three of the main dishes are cod, the most popular fish in Portugual. We had Bacalhau A Bras ($17), tender shredded codfish, finely sliced potatoes and sweet onions, tossed with eggs and parsley, and garnished with those wonderful black olives.

Carne de Porco A Alentejana ($18) - a favorite of Alison's - blends tender pork medallions, big, juicy clams, potatoes, garlic, wine and parsley for a bright, robust plate with a strong garlic note. Bitoque com Ovo a Cavallo ($17) is tender and savory, prepared in a brandy sauce and crowned by a fried egg. If you get a seat close to the kitchen, you'll also hear the chef pounding your steak in preparation for the grill - a fun reminder that freshness is king at Fado.

Chocoholics will rejoice over the Darker Side of Chocolate, and the homemade flan is out of this world - balanced, creamy and sweet with a touch of honey. Fado also makes excellent coffee, and offers espresso as well.

Eduardo and Alison said Fado nights are in the works, utilizing the restaurant's second floor for live music with wine and cheese. The liquor license is on its way, the owners said, and we can't wait to see the selection they present. And they also offer one of the best meal deals in town - the Lisbon Lunch is a choice of marinated chicken breast, jumbo shrimp or bitoque for about $10, complete with house salad and a choice of homemade chips, mashed potatoes, cabbage rice or fries.

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