Flying High And Eating Right At Solo

By Andrea Samacicia/ foodie@longislandernews.com

At first sight, Solo is an enigma.

Its width—or lack thereof—creates an optical illusion; first time visitors question just how accommodating a venue that looks that cramped can be. Return visitors have to remind themselves and their company not to judge a book by its cover. Questions flood diners’ minds; Is it a seafood joint? Or a steakhouse? A bar or a restaurant? Maybe a place where Huntington’s young and hip gather or a mature retreat?

In this case—and despite its name—Solo is a bit of everything. It is a New American restaurant that fuses just enough of the unordinary with the classic to excite a seasoned foodie, while serving up dishes that cater to a conservative eater. Chef Jeffrey Wang seems to have mastered the art of leaving well enough alone as in the case of the well-dressed Caesar Salad ($8), as well as the more elusive art of enhancing the popular with innovative embellishments.

Solo’s menu juxtaposes traditional favorites like Caesar Salad with an unusual and exotic sounding Haricotvert and Yukon Potato Salad ($10) and it successfully pairs eccentric frizzled leeks to the much beloved Crab Cakes ($12). To boot, owner Matt Friemann acknowledges his customers’ desire for comfortable settings with private and cushy pod-like booths and comfort food. Each meal starts off with an array of warm breads and creamy herbed butter.

A staple on the menu is the Grilled Double Cut Australian Lamb ($30). Prepared rare as per Wang’s suggestion, it is delectable. The meat is savory, and the homemade gnocchi, seared wild forest mushrooms, port wine lamb demi, and the haricotverts (which are found in quite a few of Solo’s offerings) accentuate the meat.

The specials change weekly and they are not to be underestimated. The Potato Crusted Salmon ($25) consisted of a generous portion of perfectly cooked salmon doused in sweet chive butter and sprinkled with fennel leek compote that added a pleasant crunch to the soft fish.

Following the very welcome trend, another special item, the Pan Seared NY Strip Loin ($36) is also comprised of a substantial portion. Like the lamb, this meat was served on the rare side, again as per Wang’s advice, and it filled the vast majority of a plate so large that if it was not occupied by this cut of meat, it would have been cumbersome. It was accompanied by excellent porcini whipped potatoes and brunello reduction. Both items are perhaps more widely known by their street names; velvety mashed potatoes and a flavorful brown gravy.

Those who are too full from their indulgent dinner or who are conscious of their caloric intake often disregard desserts. To bypass dessert is a poor choice at Solo as Sous Chef Jeffrey Katz crafts each one from scratch. The Silky Vanilla Crème Brulee, Chocolate Caramel Tart, and Peach Upside Down Cake ($9 each) are all rewarding choices and well worth the calories.

Solo’s first floor dining room has its own well stocked bar but it is the second floor lounge that attracts the night life crowd. The two components are kept isolated from each other but are somehow conscious of one another. During a night out at the lounge, conversation also turns to the restaurant and vice versa cementing the amalgamation that is Solo.

Despite its fancy offerings and trendy look, Solo is a place where even the most understated patron feels welcome. Our server, Jon, a Cold Spring Harbor High School graduate, knowledgably answered questions about the dishes. Manager John shared Solo’s brief history—it was established in May 2005—and a surprisingly young Friemann interrupted his own dinner with his fiancée’s family to chat.

On second glance, Solo remains an enigma. I still don’t know exactly what haricotverts are, or just how they managed to pack so much ambiance and, well, space into such a seemingly tiny building, but that mystique only stands to enhance Solo’s charm.

Solo

69 Wall Street
Huntington, NY
(631) 385-7084

Price Range: Moderately Expensive

Hours: Tue, Wed, Sun: 5p.m. - 10p.m.
Thu, Fri, Sat: 5p.m. - 11p.m.

Main Menu