FOODIE

Tastes Of Thailand At Thai USA
By Peter & Bob/ foodie@longislandernews.com

If you’re one of those people who thinks Thai food is all about heat and spices, a trip to Thai USA is in order. Cuisine at this small eatery is authentic Thai, melding flavors that are fresh, exotic and often fruity. Yes, sometimes there’s heat involved, and Thai USA offers the standard curries and highly spiced dishes, but it’s with the more delicate tastes that Thai USA’s kitchen shines.

The restaurant is something of an institution in Huntington, though if you haven’t visited in recent years you’re in for a surprise. The restaurant’s interior was renovated with the return of Tiki (previously from Bonbori Tiki) two years ago. Its clean lines feature dark wood and amber tones accented with woven mat and bamboo, softly illuminated with backlit rice paper panels. The look is contemporary and calming – a change from the previously drab interior that is as refreshing as the new menu.

Running the front of the house, Tiki keeps a sharp eye the dining room, often greeting diners with a warm hello on her way to set a table or replace a missing napkin at another. Many have been patrons for years, as a Thai eatery has been at the location for a quarter century.

Its latest incarnation is refreshing. Tiki’s ex, Dan, who presides in the kitchen, learned Thai cooking from his grandmother. Jeff, who goes by the name of Shrim, has been cooking with Dan for 15 years. Their dishes tend to awaken the palate with delicate and complementary combinations of flavors. Cilantro, lime juice and mango fruit seem to figure into our favorites, though the chefs are equally adept at dishes with deeper tones, particularly duck.

The dozen appetizers on the regular menu plus a few more on the specials board give a good overview of the cooks’ range.

The generously filled crispy duck wontons ($7), recently on the specials board, have a surprising fiery kick that’s cooled by the plum dipping sauce.

Thai dumplings ($7) show off the delicate touch. Tender steamed dumplings filled with minced chicken and shrimp again are complemented by a brown dipping sauce and delicate green onion flavor.

Blackened tuna is the surprise appetizer in the mix. An herbal flavor permeates the blacked tuna (market price) appetizer. Fresh tuna, dredged in spices and pan seared is thin sliced and served with a spicy Thai sauce. The flavors fall somewhere between Italian and Cajun with a hint of herbs.

Vegetables play a large part in Thai cooking and Thai USA excels at salads. Its trademark dish could well be the grilled shrimp salad ($12) with mango, tomato, onion and lime dressing. The lime and cilantro dressing brings tang to the mango, and a hint of cilantro lends freshness. It’s topped with grilled shrimp, but the salad is so delicious it could stand on its own.

Another salad-y favorite is Larb ($11), a Thai wrap of minced beef or chicken seasoned with roasted garlic, lemongrass, scallions, cilantro and onion with Thai lime dressing. The mix is spooned onto small romaine leaves and eaten much like a lettuce taco. It’s a sophisticated mix of flavors.

On several visits to Thai USA we’ve made efforts to try different dishes. However, we continue to gravitate toward favorites. For the most part, that involves anytime we see mango and cilantro in the same sentence.

On our recent visit we went for a beef dish – Yum Nua ($15) – thin slices of tender, marinated steak atop a salad of cucumber, onion and tomato flavored with lemongrass, mint, cilantro and lime. It’s a perfect summer dish that wakes up the palate.

We also made good on a promise to ourselves to try the Crispy Duck ($24). The boneless duck breast was deep, dark and rich without the fat normally associated with duck dishes. It’s slow roasted with crispy, spiced skin and a sweet plum glaze. The generous portion can easily be shared. In fact, just try not sharing it! The price reflects the three-plus hours required to cook it; every minute of it is worth it. Otherwise, entrées range from $12 to $16. Entrée selections include the expected curries with coconut, a predominant flavor.

Among the desserts at Thai USA, the homemade key lime pie ($4) is the standout. There are generally several flavors of ice cream as well, with ginger being our favorite.

Thai USA is an institution in Huntington. We have yet to be disappointed and expect that the current incarnation of this village favorite will be around for a long time.

Thai USA
273 New York Ave.
Huntington Village
631-427-6484

Cuisine: Authentic Thai dominated by light, healthy dishes.

Price Range: Very reasonable

Hours:
Lunch: Wed-Sun, 12-3 p.m.;
Dinner: Mon-Sat 5-10:30 p.m.;
Sun 5-10 p.m.

Main Menu