Calling All Hands On Deck
By Danny, Better & Karen/
What was once one of Huntingtons
top stops for fine French cuisine has taken a nautical, global
turn. We say, all aboard.
The former Aix en Provence has been Crew for about a year
now, owner Mitch Hauser said, and their move from exclusively
French fare allows him, a product of French culinary school,
to more easily offer additional varieties of cuisine. In a
way, it sticks to the French pedigree after all, the
French tradition allows you to cook just about anything, Hauser
There are influences that are French, New Orleans, Italian;
it offers more of a variance for our customers, John
Angrisani, Crews captain, said. That draws people
in and makes everybody happy.
Inside, theres a small bar and 20-table dining room,
with a shrub-enclosed patio abutting New York Avenue. The
interior is crisp and inviting in blue and white, with an
eye for upscale, casual dining. Its a cool sort
of vibe thats not uptight, Angrisani said.
We started with Crews extensive wine, beer and cocktail
menu, including their signature drink the summery and
sweet Wave ($12). Its a lemon citrus vodka, green peach
and mango tea, and triple sec; we werent the only one
in the dining room passing one around the table. Angrisani
and the staff are pros with the wine list and guided us through
our selections during the evening.
Appetizers, ranging from $8 to $14, shine at Crew and include
tender, mellow crab cakes ($13) sumptuous Foie Gras ($20)
and cool, vibrant Gazpacho ($8). The chefs surprise,
which comes as part of its By Land or By Sea dinner menu,
includes a shrimp dumpling, crab bite and a very clever spring
roll why didnt someone think to put basmati rice
in these things before?
A lobster salad of Brie, tomatoes and mixed greens
also on the Land or Sea menu is wonderfully fresh and
dressed in a mild Champagne vinaigrette that allows the diverse
flavors to take center stage.
Beef shank ($28) is fall-off-the-bone tender and bursting
with an all-American home-style flavor that comes only after
a slow roast. The pork chop, with tropical fruit, baby bok
choy and a black currant demi, is tender and boasts a summery
Salmon ($28) is fresh and served with asparagus dill honey
yoghurt, taboulleh and vibrant couscous.
Rich chocolate gelato, like most of the menu, is homemade
and a must-try. So too is the delicate and delicious crème
brulee. Flourless chocolate brownies are moist and warm, and
the truffles are decadent. On the lighter side, peach sorbet
bursts with fruit flavor.
The five-course Land or Sea special is $50 and boasts a chefs
surprise and a mix-and-match Land or Sea menu anchored by
the sumptuous dessert tasting. Add $25 for a three-pour wine
flight. A $28 three-course prix fixe is available every day
134 New York Avenue, Huntington
Atmosphere: Upscale dining in casual surroundings
Cuisine: Long Island delectables with global flair
Hours: Tues-Sun, 5 p.m.-close