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FOODIE
A ‘Lark’ Beckons
Beer Aficionados
By Danny, Betty &
Mike/ foodie@longislandernews.com
While we certainly were blue to see The Blue Room close up
shop last year, The Lark Pub & Grub that took its spot,
with a mission to provide East Northport with nearly around-the-clock
comfort food, has lifted our spirits indeed.
Owner Michael McElwee, who owns The Nutty Irishman in Farmingdale
and T.J. Finley’s in Bay Shore, said he’s had his
eye on the former Blue Room location, and when it went up
for sale, he jumped at the opportunity.
“A lot of people said the neighborhood was missing that
place you could go for a cheeseburger and a beer,” he
said.
Their prices are as comforting as the mission – nothing
on the menu is more than $18, and that’s for a marinated
skirt steak.
Now coming up on their first anniversary, The Lark specializes
in craft beer, and lots of it. They have 93 bottles available
from around the world and 17 draft lines, most of which are
rotating offerings to keep The Lark on the cutting edge of
the hottest craft beers. Unlike other craft beer bars that
shun some of the more mainstream suds, McElwee stocks “everything
from Bud Light to a $40 bottle of Belgian beer.”
Our visit began with a fried three-for-all consisting of Fried
Mac & Pepper Jack, Mashed Potato Egg Rolls and Buk Buk
Pot Stickers ($8 each). Comfort food at its finest, the fried
mac is crunchy on the outside with creamy macaroni and cheese
on the inside and has a spicy little kick that lingers. The
pot stickers have a hint of teriyaki and are served with tasty
ginger soy sauce and pickled onions.
Mashed Potato Egg Rolls, dressed in the traditional sour cream,
bacon and onions of a stuffed potato skin, are much more satisfying
than the original – it must be the crunchy exterior encasing
the sensational mashed potatoes that would make your grandmother
jealous. Ours, anyway.
Following The Lark’s trademark house salad ($8), we got
The Big Dog ($8). They weren’t kidding: Take perhaps
the largest all-beef hot dog you’ve ever seen, load it
into a soft, fluffy and equally colossal bun, add chorizo
chili, jalapeno cheddar sauce, sour cream and tomato, and
you get by far the most sinful selection on the menu. The
awe-inspiring wiener benefits from fresh ingredients and great
chili.
The grilled cheese at The Lark ($8) provides a clever twist
on a classic by combining Brie and cheddar with bacon and
fire-roasted tomato jam on sourdough.
Just as our doctor was about to forcibly retire us from Foodie
duty, the friendly, knowledgeable staff delivered the decadent
knockout punch – fried Oreos and whole milk, which are
just as ooey-gooey melt-in-your-mouth awesome as you might
imagine.
Beer aficionados should consider the Beer Club – finish
all 100 beers The Lark offers and become a Gold Member, which
entitles you to special discounts and your name engraved on
the wall. Remember – not in one sitting, silly. The key
to The Lark is pacing yourself.
The
Lark Pub & Grub
93 Larkfield Road, East Northport
631-262-9700
www.thelarkpubandgrub.com
Atmosphere: Laid-back neighborhood hangout
Cuisine: Comfort food with beer in mind
Price: Moderate
Hours:
Mon – Sat, 11:30 a.m. – 4 a.m.
Sun, 12 – 4 a.m.
Main
Menu
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