FOODIE

Quetzalcoatl: The Real Deal
By Luann & Rich/ foodie@longislandernews.com

There are those restaurants that say they are authentic, and there are those that actually are. We suspect Quetzalcoatl in Huntington village is the latter. After all, what other conclusion can you draw when the man in charge hosts monthly seminars on Native Mexican philosophy?

Alejandro Gonzalez knows his craft. Born in Mexico City, the gym-teacher-turned-chef contains in his head a wealth of cultural knowledge. On our recent visit, we didn’t choose our meals based on what we felt like eating or what sounded appetizing.
Instead, we listened to Gonzalez describe the history behind the dishes and picked our entrée based on whichever story we connected with. Talk about a new way to dine.

Gonzalez said he got into the restaurant business because, though there was plenty of Mexican food with American influences around, he couldn’t find “real” authentic Mexican cuisine. At Quetzalcoatl, named after a Mesoamerican plumed serpent god, a portion of the menu is dedicated to “platos prehispanicos,” and that is where the history lesson comes in: With every bite, you get a taste of Mexican history.

Don’t get down if truly authentic isn’t your thing, though. The restaurant, which opened about three years ago, also serves up burritos, tacos, quesadillas, enchiladads, nachos and the like.

While munching on the fresh tortilla chips and sweet salsa that is served to every table, we decided to start with a few appetizers. Guacamole ($5.95 for a small) is served chilled and smooth, especially handy in taming the super-spicy jalepeño stuffed with cheese ($5.95 for one piece). Barbecued Shrimp Al Tequila ($10.95) is less spicy but certainly tasty, with shrimp sautéed in a tequila and chile ancho sauce with chopped vegetables.

For our entrees, we stuck with the more traditional dishes. Molcajete Purepecha with chicken ($19.50), though you have your choice of meat or fish, is basically a chicken fajita in a tomato broth, served in a giant black caldron-like bowl. In Mexico, to keep food hot, meals used to be served on lava rocks that can reach very high temperatures. This bowl held the heat for the duration of our meal, keeping the food hot. The chicken and vegetables were flavored delicately and served with corn – not flour – tortillas and all the fixings. A side of cooked cactus draped the side of the bowl. Yes, we said cactus. Who knew it was edible?

Our adventurous side moved us to order Chile en Nogada ($16.95), a poblano pepper stuffed with meat and fruit, and covered in a creamy brandy and almond sauce with pomegranate seeds. It is said that the dish was invented in the 1800s to commemorate Mexican independence. An incredibly unique combination of flavors, the dish is often served at weddings.

For dessert, rice pudding ($3.95) is stellar served with fried tortilla covered in cinnamon and sugar.

Gonzalez will host his free forums on Mexican philosophy as a way of living the first Tuesday of the month from April to September, from 7 to 9 p.m. at the restaurant. Visit the website for more information.

If you’re in town during the day, they do lunch too, and breakfast on Sundays, which runs from pancakes to traditional chilaquiles. The same group owns Oaxaca around the corner on New York Avenue, where we’ve many a time enjoyed a tamale or burrito.

Quetzalcoatl

269 Main St., Huntington
631-427-7834

www.quetzalcoatlmexrest.com

Atmosphere: Scenes from the Old World

Cuisine: Traditional Mexican

Price range: Moderate

Hours: Mon – Thurs 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.,
Fri & Sat 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.,
Sunday 9 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Main Menu