FOODIE
A Taste Of Brazil On New Street
By Danny & Karen/foodie@longislandernews.com

Marcia got a makeover, and we approve.

Owner Magdy Elsirgany has turned Marcia’s Kitchen into Rio Bar and Café, a spot for a la carte dining as opposed to the once buffet/rodizio, or traditional Brazilian barbecue style of dining. Rodizio will be coming back, manager Jasmine Kracht said, and a second-floor room is being reworked to serve as a lounge and party room.

We dined with Kracht at Rio’s well-stocked, upscale bar, which boasts South American specialties like sangria ($8 glass, $32 pitcher) and draws guests to eat and converse in the bright, inviting dining room. The refreshing yet potent recipe is owner Elsirgany’s own from Brazil, Kracht said. Fans of stiffer libations should also consider the caipirinha ($8), a cachaça rum creation accompanied by sugar and muddled lime.

After drinks, Kracht brought out a South American classic – cold ceviche ($9), a zesty, bright dish of shrimp and baby scallops in lemon and lime juices, onions and cilantro. Next up were warm, filling Yucca Croquettes ($4) with seasoned beef inside, and hand-made pastels ($4), best known as empanadas around much of South America. They come filled with either cheese or beef, and both are served with Brazilian vinaigrette.

Wine is $8 per glass, $32 for the bottle, and the selection includes some truly unique items, like Calina carmonere from Chile, which is a truly unique red wine with spicy, fruity notes we’ve not experienced in many others. A lighter, sweeter choice for red wine fans would be the equally impressive Novecento sirah.

The wine sampling set us up well for the main course. Moqueca ($16.95), a seafood stew with fish and shrimp, is presented in a unique coconut milk sauce with green herbs, onion and tomatoes. The bright red sauce is much milder than one would expect, and the flavors complement each other well and highlight the fresh fish. A skirt steak special ($20.95) is well seasoned with peppery flair and comes with julienne vegetables and couscous.

Caramel flan ($5) makes for a wonderful closing conversation piece – sweet, but not overwhelmingly so, it satisfied our sweet tooth without going overboard. And speaking of sweet, check out Rio’s $7.95 tilapia, grilled shrimp or skirt steak lunch specials, along with what might be a Foodie first: Excluding the lunch special and Friday-Saturday visits, take 10 percent off your check by bringing this article with you to dinner through March 18. Hanging with the Foodies does have its perks, after all.

Rio Bar & Café
10 New Street, Huntington
631-351-1010

Cuisine: Brazilian

Atmosphere: Bright, cozy neighborhood hangout

Price: Moderate

Hours: Sunday-Thursday noon to 9:30 p.m.;
Friday & Saturday noon to 11 p.m.

Main Menu