FOODIE

The Second Coming Of Cocofe
By Danny, Betty & Karen / foodie@longislandernews.com

Everything you knew about Sally’s Cocofe has changed.

When Cocofe shut its doors this summer to be overhauled, the goal was to honor its existing chocolate theme by preserving as many of Cocofe’s best points – fondue, hot chocolate and the homemade truffles, for example – while revamping the menu and focusing the restaurant’s vision to quell the “coffee shop or restaurant?” debate that plagued them previously.

When they reopened in November, the debate was settled. While the veritable “river of chocolate” that comprises the ceiling remains, the high-backed couches have been jettisoned for two rows of traditional, candlelit dining room seating, making the space feel larger. A small lounge is set up toward the rear, perfect for coming in for a cocktail from the expanded bar, a small plate or some fondue and coffee after a movie.

“We wanted it to be a bistro that has great desserts… you could go for either one,” manager Frank Belisi, with TriBeCa Consultants, said. “It was imperative we change the image to the bistro.”

To wit, they’ve done that – the menu is all fish, pasta or vegetarian, 100 percent kosher and a “true fish house” with six fish entrees, Belisi said. Instead of having a little chocolate in everything as before, the menu is more focused. There’s a page of small plates, a page of large plates and a page of desserts. Their discipline pays off handsomely.

Dinner starts with a basket of piping-hot rolls and crackers with whipped garlic herb butter for the table. Arancini ($9) is a splendid starter, boasting risotto, peas and red peppers fried up gently in a crispy, smoky package and served in marinara sauce.

Chef Raul Flores is adept at combining bold flavors in dishes and making them shine. Take the salmon ($22) – dressed in a lemon and butter sauce, the tender, expertly-roasted filet benefits from a sauce where dominant flavors work in harmony and are enhanced as a result. Don’t skimp on the zesty Israeli couscous, either – with broccoli rabe, peas, garlic and tomatoes, it adds to the savory experience.

Sesame-crusted, seared rare tuna ($25) has something for everybody. Looking for a salty kick? Dab some balsamic reduction on the tender, vibrant tuna. Craving sweet and a little kick? Mix it with the eggplant caponata. Either way, your taste buds will experience a fantastic treat.

Linguine ($14) in pomodoro sauce, basil and olive oil, boasts fresh produce and tasty homemade pasta that will appeal to most diners, and there’s lots to go around.

Presentation is also a priority for the new Cocofe. The salmon comes with a pair of long Chinese noodles jauntily thrust upward, as if they’re in an artistic, culinary swordfight. The tuna, ascending on a serving of caponata, is jazzed up with specks of balsamic reduction.

The desserts and the chocolate are still stars, and for good reason.
Cocofe always did chocolate well, and that hasn’t changed. In fact, they upped the ante to best complement the menu. Our advice? Leave lots of room for dessert.

Described by one of our party as looking like a “s’more for grown-ups,” Cocofe’s outstanding Black and White Napoleon ($8) is a little slice of chocolate heaven housed between layers of flaky phyllo pastry topped with a bit of powdered sugar. Decadent, creamy dark chocolate and white chocolate mousses melt in your mouth and leave you wanting more.

Chocolate lovers and diners with a serious sweet tooth should take note of the Chocolate Molten Cake ($8), a flourless confection containing chocolate mousse and chocolate sauce that hits the spot without being an overwhelming mass of chocolate despite its ingredients. Non-chocolate choices were hits as well – the warm Apple Galette ($8) is a buttery free-form tart with caramel sauce and a homemade flavor that would make Paula Deen proud.

The best dessert by far for sharing (you’ll want to hog the others, trust us), the fondue ($8 per person) has a big bonus. You can tell your trainer or gym buddies that you had fresh, seasonal fruit for dessert when you went out. Just forget to tell him or her that it was coated in a layer of divine chocolate.

Sally’s Cocofe

273 Main Street, Huntington village
631-546-7541
www.sallyscocofe.com

Cuisine: Creative fish, pasta and salads
Atmosphere: Casual, yet upscale city chic on Long Island
Price Range: Moderate
Hours: Mon. – Thurs.: Noon – 10 p.m.
Fri.: Noon – Late Night
Sat.: 1 p.m. – Late Night
Sun.: 1 p.m. – 9 p.m.

Main Menu