Taking Three Steps To
By Luann & Lou / firstname.lastname@example.org
Weve come to learn
that there are three steps to making good Italian: one, use
quality ingredients; two, dont rush it; and three, make
it with love. Some Italian restaurants get that, and Tre Scalini
seems to be one of them.
The restaurant that took over Luigis on Route 110 in
Melville is the same Tre Scalini meaning three
steps of the Maddoloni Jewelers shopping center
on Jericho Turnpike, where it had been since the mid-90s.
The humble Melville dining space almost has a diner-like feel
at first, filled with booths, tables and a wide assortment
of people; on our Tuesday night visit, patrons ranged from
a table of 10 for a birthday party to a couple sharing a romantic
Heading the operation are Tony Dushaj and Angelo Barrera,
both active figures in the restaurant, talking to diners,
taking orders and making sure things run smoothly.
Tre Scalinis menu is typical of your every day Italian
restaurant, filled with staples like fried calamari, antipasti,
Bolognese, penna alla vodka and chicken parmigiana. The kitchen
seems to be more adventurous with their specials.
We started with, as we usually do, the fried calamari ($7).
The calamari was tender, but the batter left us wanting more.
However, the marinara sauce it came with was wonderful, more
of a filetto di pomodoro, leaving us hopeful that Tre Scalinis
marinara-based dishes would be a tasty treat.
Next up was a pair of chicken dishes. The chicken in the Scarpariello
($13) comes as two large, thick cutlets, sautéed in
a delicate white wine sauce and topped with sliced eggplant,
prosciutto and melted mozzarella. The chicken is thick and
juicy, and the eggplant is sliced thin and breaded, but doesnt
overpower the dish. The prosciutto is thicker than most weve
had, but tastes great and complements the other flavors well.
The standout of our meal, however, was the Chicken Angelo
special ($14). The dish is made with the same delicious, juicy
cutlets, and topped with the same melted mozzarella, but the
surprise star here is the asparagus and roasted red peppers
on top of that. And these arent just your average asparagus
spears. These are huge only three were needed to cover
one chicken cutlet but didnt lack flavor. Despite
the fact that the portion is generous, the dish is light and
doesnt leave you with that Ive stuffed myself
Whats more, the broccoli with garlic cloves and oil
that came with both dishes was stellar.
For dessert, we opted for the standard tartufo, but Tony suggested
the cheesecake. Naturally, we went with both.
A ball of chocolate and vanilla ice cream covered in hard
chocolate, the tartufo satisfies the sweet tooth. However,
we were really impressed with the homemade cheesecake. We
couldnt discern what was in it, and Tony wouldnt
reveal his secret, but we believe there was a hint of anisette
in the ricotta-like cake as well as some chocolate swirls.
Overall, we were very satisfied with our visit and are anxious
to return. Next on our list: some of those pasta dishes.
672 Walt Whitman Road
Atmosphere: Casual, family friendly
Price range: Inexpensive-moderate
Hours: Monday-Thursday noon-10 p.m.;
Friday and Saturday noon-11 p.m.;
Sunday 2-10 p.m.