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FOODIE
A Fresh Escape From Winter’s
Cold
By Danny Schrafel/ foodie@longislandernews.com
If your restaurant serves
you a salad with good tomatoes in January, chances are you’ve
made a wise decision.
Commack’s Olio, at 5990 Jericho Turnpike in Commack,
did just that with our Calamari Ginger Salad ($9.99), which
comes with lightly fried calamari, romaine, walnuts and diced
plum tomatoes tossed in a mild homemade ginger dressing. Along
with the tender calamari in buttery, crunchy batter and crisp
romaine, the ripe tomatoes create a delectable contrast of
hot and cold, salty and sweet, crisp and crunchy.
The eatery, great for lunch and dinner alike, promises “good
wine, good friends and good times,” and we agree. It’s
also a wonderful place to shake off the sub-20-degree winter
chills, with its calming, wood-and-brick interior and musical
selections that range from Rat Pack to legendary Italian opera.
Olio is part of an extended family of restaurants like Commack’s
La Spada and Stony Brook’s O Sole Mio.
After our salad, we decided to explore that magnificent pizza
case, stocked with rolls ($5.99), pinwheels ($2.99), stromboli
and calzones ($4.99 - $5.99), and pizza galore. A regular
is $12.95 for the whole pie, but with their emphasis on fresh
ingredients, we’d advise being adventurous and indulging
– your choices range from simple marinara ($10.95) to
indulgent stuffed meat ($27.95) and chicken francese ($20.95)
or Gorgonzola salad ($19.95.)
The pinwheels are also worth noting as possibly the best $3
you can spend in sheer bang-for-your-buck. They’re stuffed
with mozzarella cheese and other Italian goodies like spinach,
broccoli, sausage or pepperoni. More filling than the price
tag would betray, the doughy, cheesy confections are served
with a side of piping-hot marinara sauce. The mammoth, almost
imposing rolls would likewise be a great choice as they pull
from the same source materials.
Check out the soup, too, which includes minestrone, stracciatella
and pasta e fagioil; each runs $4.50 for a small, $7 for large.
Add meatballs to stracciatella, a spinach and egg-drop consommé,
for a nominal charge.
With the economy still in the tank, Monday and Tuesday pasta
nights might make dining out easier, offering diverse entrees,
soup or salad, a beverage and dessert for less than $15. Also,
note that pies are $2 off on Wednesdays.
Just as we paid up for our second round, they put a tray full
of heros, stuffed with chicken, fresh mozzarella, peppers,
sausages – you name it – right under our noses under
the glass. Looks like our new year’s resolutions may
be in more danger than we thought.
Olio
Ristorante & Pizzeria
5990 Jericho Turnpike
Commack
631-858-9898
www.mangiaolio.com
Cuisine: Italian staples, with an emphasis on freshness
Atmosphere: Cozy, calming eatery
Price Range: Inexpensive – Moderate
Hours: Sun. – Thurs. 11 a.m. – 10 p.m.
Fri. & Sat. 11 a.m. – midnight
Main
Menu
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