FOODIE

Toast To Life At Porto Vivo Chef’s Table
By Peter & Mike/foodie@longislandernews.com

Since opening at the end of August, Porto Vivo (7 Gerard St., Huntington 631-385-8486 www.porto-vivo.com) has established itself as a deserving contender on the Huntington hot list. Its stunning, multi-level contemporary interior has made a former antiques warehouse inviting. Able hands – indeed, well qualified ones – in the kitchen, have made even discerning diners take notice. And a host of celebrity sightings – from Billy Joel to Serena Williams to chef Todd English – have made for plenty of buzz. Heck, even the owner’s a celebrity of sorts. Joy Mangano is a personality very familiar to fans of the Home Shopping Network where her Huggable Hangers (250 million sold) and Miracle Mop are top sellers.

Now Porto Vivo co-owner – Mangano’s Swiss-born, European-kitchen-trained son-in-law, Philipp Seipelt – wants to showcase the restaurant’s impeccable kitchen credentials. Toward that end, Seipelt recently hosted “Chef’s Table,” an intimate food and wine experience that gave diners the ultimate insider’s experience of Porto Vivo.

Although Porto Vivo’s rustic Italian menu is designed to give guests freedom of economic choice (entrees range from $14 to $48), the Chef’s Table menu was pure luxe – a six-course parade that showcased the kitchen’s creativity.

The evening started in the restaurant’s cozy, bottle-lined wine cellar, where more than a dozen guests sipped a light Italian Pinot Grigio while Seipelt talked about the restaurant. From there, the group moved upstairs to the kitchen. It’s a busy kitchen made lively by Executive Chef Steven Lecchi barking out orders and staff ferrying dishes to the dining room. Here, Lecchi and Consulting Chef John Doherty presented the next course – a warm roasted butternut squash flan flavored with garlic and porcini mushroom, topped with tomato and theatrically served in an eggshell from which guests scooped the earthy treat with little spoons. The autumnal flavor was enhanced with pumpkin ale from Southampton Brewery, and continued with the second course: whole wheat linguine with roasted chestnuts and ricotta salata shavings.

From there the group moved to the main dining room where Seipelt oversaw the procession of dishes. A trio of appetizers featured the best of the sea. Bay scallop “crudo” – some call it Italian sushi – was a pleasant mingling of scallopy sweetness and lemony acid, and baked razor clam was an elegant twist on a restaurant standby. The star was a single Blue Point Oyster topped with an icy pomegranate granita, and all was complemented by a bit of bubbly: Freixenet Cordon Negro Extra Dry from Spain.

Sea-spray cool turned to earthy warmth with the next course. Goat cheese gnocchi in rich parmesan cream was a melt-in-your-mouth (like marshmallows without the sweetness) treat made ever-so-much richer with generous shavings of white truffle. The wine, 1992 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco from Piedmont, Italy, brought a velvety and rich finish.

Finally, the meal moved to a full depth of flavor with coriander and orange dusted venison tenderloin and braised venison short ribs served with a 2004 Rockblock Syrah from Del Rio Vineyard in Oregon. The venison was rich, not at all gamey; the wine stood up to its bold flavors.

Dessert – an aromatic apple parfait accompanied by apple zeppole with cinnamon whipped cream – continued the fall theme, as did the accompanying Samuel Smith’s organic cider from England.

Whether it was the wine accompaniments that enhanced the meal or the other way around, we were dazzled. The classically trained Seipelt, who oversees the restaurant’s wine list, said he would like to make the Chef’s Table experience – including the kitchen courses – available to patrons. Pray he does and sign yourself up.



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