It’s More Than Mexican

By Luann, Margaret Ann & Rich/ foodie@longislandernews.com

There’s a new Latin restaurant in Town, and it’s one where arepas and pupusas take center stage.

Lost yet? So were we, but Commack’s Maize Cantina was a refreshing change from a typical Mexican restaurant.

Lively, festive music beckons one inside the modest, 20-table restaurant, which opened about four months ago in a corner of the North Gate Shopping Center on Jericho Turnpike. Colorful murals on the walls are based on real murals found in Mexico, and the serapes that hang alongside them are authentic.

But don’t be fooled by all the Mexican decorations; Maize Cantina is not, strictly, a Mexican restaurant. Rather, the gluten-free menu boasts foods from all over Latin America. There are three main items: arepas – flat, round and griddled homemade stuffed corncake sandwiches popular in Venezuela; pupusas – handmade thick corn tortillas of El Salvador; and tacos, traditionally Mexican. There are also salads and a variety of “otros” (other) things to choose from. What’s more, all individual menu items are under $10.50.

Fresh chips and a chunky, mild, tomato-heavy salsa get your palate going. We started with El “Maize” de cantina, a new take on corn on the cob, with melted chipotle butter, cotija cheese and cilantro ($3.50). One of the most flavorful cobs out there, the corn practically pops right off. Chilaquiles are a traditional Mexican dish, and Maize Cantina’s version ($7) comes with shredded chicken, black beans, tomatillo salsa, manchego and cotija cheeses, and avocado atop thick, crispy corn tortilla chips. It reminded us of a nachos platter, but heartier and with thicker chips.

The soup special ($5.95) was a standout appetizer, a roasted tomato base with baby peas, shrimp and truffle oil. The soup is sweeter than most and goes down easy, accented nicely and delicately flavored.

On the arepa front, we enjoyed La Mer, with plump grilled shrimp, avocado, marinated tomato and crispy plantains cut in long, thin slices ($7.50). El Pollo was a tasty choice as well, with tender grilled chicken, flavorful chorizo (sausage), avocado, and a jalapeño chimichurri that gives it just the slightest kick ($6.50). The arepa itself lets the inside flavors take center stage, crisp on the outside and hollowed out on the inside.

We then moved into the pupusas, which are flat and round, cornmeal-like discs filled with either beans and cheese, pork and cheese, spinach and cheese, or served plain, and topped with anything and everything. We preferred the spinach and cheese filling, made with fresh spinach, not a cheesy dip-like mixture. Our favorite was La Carne ($10.50), grilled skirt steak with sautéed peppers and onions, tomatillo salsa and melted jack cheese.

Finally, tacos come in threes, in handmade soft corn torillas. We opted for El Pastor ($9.50), with tender pulled pork, glazed pineapple, pickled onion and cilantro crema. A great combination of sweet and sour, the mixture complemented the pork well.
We finished with a light Arroz con leche ($5), rice pudding over caramelized pound cake with dulce de leche sauce.

The man behind the curtain at Maize Cantina is chef and owner Michael Merida. Formerly a chef at Huntington’s Panama Hatties, various country clubs, high-end restaurants overseas and the Grand Floridian at Disney World, Merida has now embarked on his first venture into restaurant ownership. He said he picked a Latin fusion theme with families in mind.

“I think, with this economy, this is the type of food that works for families,” he said.
And what’s a bigger draw to families than a $5 “niños” menu for children 12 and under? The kids’ menu features chicken fingers, cheese quesadillas, mini slider burgers, mac and cheese, all served with French fries or rice, and a drink. Get there early, because when they’re busy, they’re busy.

Maize Cantina
1141-1 Jericho Turnpike
Commack
(North Gate Shopping Center)
631-864-2777

Atmosphere: Casual, lively, kid-friendly

Cuisine: Latin American

Price: Inexpensive

Hours: Tuesday – Thursday
11:30 a.m. – 9:30 p.m.;
Friday, Saturday
11:30 a.m. – 10 p.m.;
Sunday 4 – 9 p.m.;
closed Mondays

Main Menu