FOODIE

Remember Why You First Fell In Love With Jonathan’s
By Pete & Co./foodie@longislandernews.com

A favorite restaurant is like a marriage.

First you fall in love. Then you settle into that comfortable routine. It’s great if you want someone to complete your sentences for the rest of your life. But in a good marriage, you change things up and throw in a few surprises so things don’t become too routine.

It’s the same with your favorite restaurant. As much as you want it to fit like a comfortable sweater, you don’t necessarily want to wear that same tired cashmere.
In the more than two years since we first reviewed – no, fell in love with – Jonathan’s, we’ve let it become like that favorite sweater.

Don’t blame owner Roberto Oronato. He and executive chef Tito Onofre – a Florida Culinary Institute graduate and veteran who has cooked for the jury at James Beard House – have changed and tweaked the menu over the years. It’s our fault for always grabbing that comfortable sweater.

Well, a recent family celebration was like a “marriage encounter” session. With eight of us at the table and a new menu, it was an opportunity to learn again what it is that makes Jonathan’s Ristorante one of Huntington’s finest restaurants.
As the “ristorante” in the name implies, Jonathan’s menu is rooted in Italian cuisine. Now in his 15th year at Jonathan’s, Oronato is in full stride, presiding over a spacious and elegant space in the heart of Huntington’s downtown. Renovated several years ago, the space stretching from Wall Street to the municipal parking lot in back is tastefully appointed with a 30-foot granite bar, mahogany woodwork throughout, and large mirrors that make an already spacious area even more so.

A meal starts with a basket of Jonathan’s signature crusty bread – placed atop the white clothed table with a dish of olive oil for dipping. We like a dash of salt and pepper in the plate with the oil and make it disappear while perusing the menu and Jonathan’s extensive wine list. (They consistently earn accolades from Wine Spectator magazine.)

Our large party sampled extensively from the menu, starting with our “must order,” Fritto di carciofini – tender baby artichokes sautéed in basil oil. Lightly battered and fried calamari is a classic, paired with a tomato sauce and anchovy mayo; and Gorgonzola Festivea is a party on a plate: grilled asparagus, zucchionibeets and arugula with generous hunks of Gorgonzola cheese.

Stars among the entrees were the Risotto ai Funghi, a delicate preparation of Italian Arborio rice balanced with earthy mushrooms and truffle oil ($21); Salmon con Favetta, a hunk of gamey-tasting Scottish salmon atop a pile of favetta, escarole and lemon citronette ($26); and Capesante e Carciofini, a trio of seared jumbo scallops with those sautéed baby artichokes and string beans ($29).

Gamberi in Padell alla Puttanesca – sautéed Tiger Shrimp ($24) – is a flavorful marriage of salty and sweet with fresh tomatoes, olives, capers and basil. And from the specials menu, the Halibut likewise featured a sophisticated melding of flavors with fresh tomatoes and slightly hot peppers ($26). Since all at the table were family, there was plenty of plate passing.

No one needed it, but we all pitched in to devour a sampling of desserts (most $9). The favorite was the pine nut tart with rosemary topped with vanilla gelato and a drizzle of herb-infused honey. The always reliable flourless chocolate cake with hazelnut gelato gives chocolate lovers their fix, and a poached pear with gelato is elegance in a dish. We enjoyed all with tiny glasses of Muscatto, a sparkling Italian dessert wine selected by Oronato that put a crowning, finishing touch to a memorable meal.

And we all remembered exactly why we first fell in love with Jonathan’s.

Jonathan’s Ristorante
15 Wall St
Huntington, NY 11743
631-549-0055
www.jonathansristorante.com

Cuisine: Contemporary Northern Italian

Atmosphere: Comfortable elegance

Price Range: Expensive

Hours:

Lunch: Monday – Saturday 12-3 p.m.

Dinner: Monday – Thursday, 5 – 10 p.m.;
Friday & Saturday, 5 – 10:30 p.m.,
Sunday, 4 – 9 p.m.

Main Menu