FOODIE

Comfort Rules At Robke’s
By Pete & Rosie/foodie@longislandernews.com

The restaurant business is known for its high failure rate, but when an eatery’s a hit, it has staying power. Few restaurants in the Town of Huntington have the staying power that Robke’s Country Inn has enjoyed over the years… er, decades.

First opened as a German restaurant on Fort Salonga Road in Northport, Robke’s has been cranking out meals since 1961. Ernest and Mary Lou Robke were famous for their burgers and steaks and for years they kept local tummies full and gained a loyal following. Twenty years ago they sold. Louis Selvaggio knew a good thing when he saw it, and kept the Robke name. Any tinkering the new owner did was in the kitchen.
Drawing on his own background as a chef, Selvaggio expanded the Robke’s menu with a taste or two from Italy, adding such signature dishes as Penne ala Mia, or pasta with peas and prosciutto in porcini mushroom sauce; and Snapper al Forno, breaded and baked with fresh tomato, olive oil and garlic. And keeping with the family-friendly theme of his restaurant, Selvaggio can be counted on to have a pot of tomato sauce simmering in the kitchen every Sunday. His Rigatoni with sausage and meatballs are a favorite. The menu stayed part-time German, but over the years the Italian has slowly taken over.

If there’s a key to the success of Robke’s, it’s in the simplicity. The simple oak accented interior warmed by polished brass light fixtures is as welcoming as the family room at home. The offerings, too, are simple, with just over a half-dozen appetizers, and as many pasta dishes, to complement just over a dozen regular entrées. Of course there are always specials on the board, based on what’s fresh at the market.

Crabmeat stuffed mushrooms ($8.95) or spicy clams oreganata ($10.95) make a tasty start to the meal, although we rarely miss an opportunity to order an antipasto salad. Robke’s version of fresh mozzarella, provolone, roasted red peppers and soppresatta tastes of authenticity. The basket of rolls that comes with your meal is the perfect accompaniment.

Pasta specialties are generously portioned and made to order. Penne with fresh spinach and shrimp oreganata ($19.95) has a bit of kick to it. Linguini with baby clams puts a twist on a trattoria standard with the addition of shrimp ($19.95). And a favorite – Robke’s famous macaroni and cheese with sliced steak ($24.95) seems to be neither German nor Italian – but American.

The restaurant’s German side comes out in the steak and chop selections. A beefy sirloin ($36.95); chopped sirloin steak ($18.95) and the famous fingertip steak sandwich ($29.95) from the restaurant’s early days are a mean and a half.

While we tend to order off the specials board, sautéed entrees vie for attention as well. Chicken Cardinali features mozzarella, roasted peppers and salty prosciutto. The chef is a wiz with francaise sauce: lemon sole or thinly pounded chicken francaise ($19.95) is crispy-battered, light and lemony.

With times as tight as they are, Robke’s is a hit with its $10 lunch and Sunday brunch specials. Between the two, a full midday meal will never cost more than two fins on any day of the week. The day’s entrees are on the specials board and on a recent visit included a delicious halibut with cherry tomato, and a chicken francaise with fresh string beans and potatoes. We started ours with a Blue Point ale served with an orange slice.

Portions at Robke’s are generous, the atmosphere friendly and unpretentious… and they earn an extra pillow for the comfort level. Children are welcome.

All in all, Robke’s is a winner.

Robke’s Country Inn
427 Fort Salonga Road, Northport
631-754-9663
www.robkescountryinn.com

Atmosphere: Casual, honey toned wood interior

Cuisine: Its German roots have gone Italian

Price range: Inexpensive to moderate

Hours: Sun-Thurs, 11:30-10;
Fri-Sat, 11:30-11;
Brunch Sundays 11-2.

Main Menu