FOODIE

Boardwalk? We’ve Got Francesco’s
ByDanny & Rosie/ foodie@longislandernews.com

Let’s go back, shall we? How about to the days of drive-up dining? The days when Ike was president, Chevrolet Bel Airs were the hottest cars around and the fastest food came by way of roller-skates and waitresses with trays in tow. Thanks to Francesco’s of New York, at 918 Jericho Turnpike in Huntington Station, that option is available again, minus the waitresses on roller-skates.

If you’re staying to eat, alfresco dining is the only way to go here. The fenced-in roadside setup and storefront evoke all the wonderful thoughts of being on the boardwalk with a knish or a hot dog. Francesco’s follows the family tradition began by Dominick’s and D’Angelo’s sausage and pepper trucks, which traverse Woodhaven Boulevard in Queens every day and service Italian festivals and street fairs. They’ve been doing so for three generations, said co-owner Gary D’Angelo, who runs the operation with his wife Angela and sister-in-law Celene.

Last time we visited, it was frigid January, and we thought Francesco’s deserved a return visit as a summer destination spot. We’re glad we made the trip.

When you walk up to the stand, on its green boardwalk-style storefront, the scent of sausages, peppers and onions is something to behold. It was so convincing of a day on the Jersey Shore or Coney Island that we swore we smelled seawater, but the delightful aroma must have rendered us temporarily punch-drunk. Alas, we digress – on to the food.

According to Bravo TV’s “Top Chef,” their hot dogs ($2.50 and up) are among the best in New York, and with their soft buns, mild flavor and crisp, yet not tough, exterior, we can see why. The cheese steaks ($7.25), a staple of any good boardwalk restaurant, were a hit, too – we liked the balance of steak and white American cheese. Neither overwhelmed the other, and the portions were generous. The sausage and peppers ($6.75), which come both in sweet and spicy varieties, were fresh, enticingly seasoned and filling. The spicy sandwiches come with jalapenos – look out for the fire trucks as you nosh away.

The onion rings ($2.75) stand out as well – while they’re crunchy and slightly sweet, they’re easy to eat. There was no dealing with scalding-hot onion flying out as you’re pulling a bit of a ring away. And, after tasting the waffle fries ($2.45) we came to a consensus on the fried foods at Francesco’s – they’re fried, but not greasy.

While you’re there, check out the knishes, seasonal specials, kebabs, corn on the cob and no-bread combo platters. The chicken teriyaki ($8.75, with two sides) was a fun fusion of carnival-style food with its extra pepper kick added to the Asian flavors.
While they’ve been in Huntington since last July, we hope they’ll be sticking around for many more summers, providing a little oasis for some old-fashioned fun on Jericho Turnpike. Just make sure you don’t forget the sunscreen.

Francesco’s of New York
918 East Jericho Turnpike
Huntington Station
631-424-0653

Cuisine: Sausage and pepper truck staples with classic flair

Atmosphere: Boardwalk dining, on the roadside

Price range: Inexpensive

Hours: Monday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 9 p.m.

Main Menu