FOODIE

Visit Argentina At Café Buenos Aires
By Luann, Richard, Margaret Ann & Rich/ foodie@longislandernews.com

We’ve deemed the Town of Huntington many things, among them the restaurant capital of Long Island and the culture capital of Long Island. Café Buenos Aires in Huntington village is where both food and culture converge in an experience that can be described as exotic, delicious, unique and enticing.

The face of the restaurant is Argentina-born Hugo Garcia, whom we like to call Huntington’s unofficial Argentinean ambassador. Professional, personable and classy to the end, Garcia, a Huntington resident, seats you when you walk in, checks on your table later and chats it up. He has been working on the same street for 28 years, including helping open Bistro Cassis in Huntington.

“I had the opportunity to be in many different places, but I wanted to be in my Huntington,” he said on deciding to open an Argentinean restaurant in Huntington.

Café Buenos Aires’ menu is 70 percent Argentine with some dishes of Spanish – like the paella over saffron rice – and Italian – like the cannelloni – influences. Tapas and appetizers range from $3 to $14, and entrees $16 to $28. Get a round of tapas and share, or share some entrées. You can’t go wrong; it’s all good.

Behind the long, sleek, handsome bar on our recent visit was bartender Scott, who kept plenty busy mixing pitcher after pitcher of sangria. Naturally, we had to see what all the fuss was about. One glass and we understood. Refreshing and cool, the sangria is one that perfectly balances the tastes of wine and fruit.

We then moved to the dining area, with white clothed tables line walls of Argentinean decorations and paintings of Tango dancers.

Bread is served with three sauces, chimichurri, a mix of olive oil and herbs, a spicy version of chimichurri with flakes of red pepper, and a diced tomato topping.

Paired with a light and smooth 2008 Viña San Esteban Pinot Noir from Argentina, we started with empanadas ($3 each), given the choice of corn, chicken, ground beef or spinach. The favorite at the table was the corn, though all were excellent and the spinach had a slight unexpected kick.

Next up was a grilled lobster dish served with bacon and sliced mango in a sauce made with ginger, a touch of cognac and a little garlic ($10-12). We’ve never tasted lobster like this. The barbeque-grilled style adds flavor to it, while keeping it tender.

We thought the lobster was our favorite until we had a filet of halibut inside a puffed pastry with a lobster claw ($29). The fish is fresh and the pastry flaky, and it’s served over a risotto that was the best we’ve had in a while. Hugo probably could have just brought us the risotto and we would have been happy.

Soft shell crab (market price) with avocado, diced tomatoes and red onion is crispy and light, while the cheese in the four-cheese fondue with bread and assorted meat skewers ($12) is creamy and warm. This is definitely the dish to order at the bar with friends.
Most impressive was the parrillada mixta ($59, serves two), which was plenty for four of us. Served on a grill, it features cuts of tender skirt steak, chicken on the bone, sweetbreads (meat from the thyroid), sweet and black sausage with tasty vegetables and mashed potatoes.

We thought we couldn’t fit dessert, but when they came out we couldn’t say no. The standout was the crepe filled with dulce de leche from Argentina served with bananas. The chocolate cake is also delicious, warm and filled with white chocolate. Churros are crunchy and sugary, served alongside a must have dulce de leche ice cream that left us speechless. On the drink end, we had a Scott original: a malted martini, which tasted like a milkshake, but so much better.

Along with its extensive lunch menu, as well as a pre-fixe $19.95 lunch option, Café Buenos Aires just introduced a Sunday brunch with – what else? – Tango dancers. The dancers also appear on Friday nights for added authentic flare.

Take a trip to South America – just around the corner. And don’t forget to shake Hugo’s hand on the way out.

Café Buenos Aires
23 Wall Street
Huntington
631-603-3600
www.cafebuenosaires.net

Atmosphere: Lively, fun-loving, sophisticated

Cuisine: Argentinean with Spanish and Italian influences

Price range: Moderate

Hours: 7 days lunch and dinner, Sunday brunch

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