Aix Marks The Spot On The Foodie Map

By Pete & Mike/ foodie@longislandernews.com

You can’t judge a book by its cover and you can’t always judge a restaurant by its name.

Take Huntington’s Aix en Provence. One might assume that a restaurant bearing the name of an ancient city in southern France would be strictly French. But Mitch and Debbie Hauser – who own the Locust Valley landmark Barney’s as well – have created on a New York Avenue a dining experience that while it is decidedly French, is a whole lot more. Their willingness to stray and experiment makes it difficult to put them in so strict a category and like so many restaurants today, Aix-En-Provence is difficult to pigeonhole.

That said… France is clearly the starting point. The red room – an homage to Matisse, perhaps – has a French Country feel and a candle on every table adds to the warmth. At the end of the room facing the harbor, French doors open out to a patio whose umbrella-covered tables beckoned us to return for a visit during daylight hours. And the menu – well it’s sort of a global French with foie gras, roast duck and plenty of magical saucery from the food capital of the world. But the executive chef – owner Mitch Hauser – approaches his menu like a Frenchman at the marketplace and he isn’t afraid to fill his basket with the best of what’s being offered on a given day. So diners are as likely to find find lobster, barbeque pork, monkfish and antelope on the menu as they are duck. Our recent visit started with the complimentary soft-shelled crab that was set before every diner that night. The seasonal specialty was sautéed with golden raisins Provencale and set atop bed of wild rice with crisp haricots vert – or string beans as we call them in these parts. Warm sourdough rolls and herbed butter kept our hands busy while we our server Chris handed over the menu and explained the chef’s specials of the day. There’s a duck presentation every day – that night it was in a red currant demi glaze with wild rice ($30) – and we also had to tempt us Seared Wolfish with baby vegetables and Fregola Tebouleh, and Texas Black Buck Antelope in a pepper sauce. And that’s on top of a regular menu that features a medley of first courses and no less than ten entrees, each sounding better than the last.

All that temptation made the five course tasting menu an easy choice for the Foodies. For starters we selected from the specials menu a Lobster Salad and one of the restaurants signature dishes – foie gras. The first was a summery starter featuring chunks of sweet Maine lobster over baby greens with goat cheese, artichoke hearts and back Mission figs. A champagne vinaigrette complimented the mix nicely. The seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras was a sensational mix of flavors -- prosciutto shrimp sautéed in a reduction of a 20-year port wine and served with dollops of fruit chutney and red onion marmalade made for a plate-sized tasting tour. We could only imagine what we were missing among the other first-course selections; we were tempted by the Maryland Crabcake with a lemon caper emulsion ($13); the Coconut Shrimp with Jumbo Asparagus with apple slaw and an orange reduction ($15); and the Portobello Mushroom Cap with mozzarella, roasted pepper, tomato and basil($13). Salad selection were also tempting, if only to sample the dressings. A salad of field greens with candied pecans and grape tomatoes ($10) is dressed with an intriguing sounding Maple Sherry dressing; and the Rocket Salad ($11) beckoned with a flavorful sounding mix of prosciutto, feta cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and capers.

But on to the entrees.

We were tempted by the Herb Roasted Tenderloin of Lamb with a pistachio couscous ($33); the Seared Diver Scallops with ricotta gnocchi, wilted spinach, roast corn and an intriguing sounding foie gras emulsion tomato coulis ($28); as well as the Texas Black Buck Antelope au poivre from the specials menu. Ultimately we tried a pair of seafood dishes and the signature duck.

Seared Ahi Tuna is a Foodie favorite and the dish that seems to be on every restaurant’s menu these days. Aix’s version ($29) was a melt-in-your-mouth fresh fish treat served with soba noodle and wakame salad and stirred fried vegetables. A spicy ginger soy glaze gave the dish an oriental flavor.

On our server Chris’ recommendation we tried the Seafood Lasagna and were glad we did. It was a boulliabaisse-like concoction of lobster, shrimp, scallops brie cheese in a saffron lobster sauce. The wafer thin slab of honmemade pasta was almost superfluous, and the attentive staff was wise enough to bring another round of rolls so we could enjoy every drop f the delicious broth.

The star of the night – the Long Island Duckling ($30) consisting of a seared breast and confit leg. The red currant glaze was perfection, and the confit leg had us wishing ducks had bigger legs. Much bigger. Confit is created by wrapping duck legs in herbs and rendered duck fat, and leaving the mix in the fridge for two weeks. Then each leg is deep fried, burning off the fat and leaving a crisp flavorful treat. Aix excels at the art.

Our five course tasting menu was served efficiently by Chris and a helper; fresh silverware was place with each course, and each was delivered with an explanation of what we were about to enjoy. After five trips to the silver caddy, the last course was dessert. We wanted to try a little bit of several desserts, but the cheese platter ($12 for one; $17 for two) was too tempting (the Foodies are cheesies too, you know). More traditional dessert ($9) urges were more than satisfied by the Flourless Silk Chocolate Cake drizzled with Kahlua Anglaise was smooth and chocolatey; a mini Crème Brulee was made as only the French can; and the Mango Glace was light, not too sweet and entirely refreshing.

Any Frenchman will tell you that man does not live on food alone. Aix-En-Provence manager Remy van Driel’s Wine Spectator Award winning selections are extensive in price range and selection. A quartet each of red and white are available by the glass for $9, with a few premium selections priced higher.

Aix-En-Provence earns a place on the Foodie map; put it on your itinerary.

Aix-En-Provence

134 New York Avenue

Huntington

631-549-3338

Atmosphere: Haute cuisine in a country French setting

Hours: Open for dinner Tuesday-Sunday.

Price Range: Expensive, but the $28.95 prix fixe Sunset Menu (Sun-Fri from 5 to 6:30 pm) offers an affordable Aix experience.

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