FOODIE

Simply La Spada
By Luann & Margaret Ann / foodie@longislandernews.com

Finally – an Italian restaurant whose menu we don’t have committed to memory before we even walk through the door!

La Spada in Huntington Station is not your typical Italian restaurant. With a portion of the menu dedicated to grilled specialties and an emphasis on “fresh and simple,” the restaurant caters to those seeking a high-end Italian dining experience.

Situated on the west side of Route 110 opposite the Walt Whitman Mall, the modestly-sized La Spada would be easy to miss, but what a mistake that would be. The simplicity of the outside is deceiving, almost masking the sophistication within.

Owner Joe Tamburello, with his partner chef Emilio Valle, is no stranger to the restaurant business. The Sicilian-born East Northport resident plays a spectacular host, remembering faces and drinks as patrons entered for dinner.

“Same table? Same wine?” he asked one couple.

In the romantically themed dining room the wine-colored rug matches the walls, lined in a material rather than just paint. Wine bottles on a shelf separate the dining room from the bar and a private room.

Through La Spada’s four years on Walt Whitman Road, the fare has been simple and fresh, but not lacking in flavor. Dishes are delicately flavored so the taste of the food itself is evident and not masked by complicated sauces or harsh spices. Garlic always comes in whole pieces – not chopped, dry and tasteless.

We always love restaurants that veer away from the traditional bread and butter to start. Though there is bread and butter on the table, opt for the bruschetta – the tomatoes taste like they’ve been soaking up spices for days – and the olive spread. You won’t be disappointed.

Appetizers started with one of the hits of the night: Arrosticini ($13), grilled lamb shiskabobs, or “the Italian chicken wing, if you will,” as Joe put it. We hear these have now become famous on Joe’s block. Tender and juicy, the lamb is served on skewers and isn’t rough.

Carciofi ($12.95) are artichokes sautéed in garlic, oil and fresh herbs. Parts are crisp and flavorful, but the hearts remain soft and juicy. The taste of the artichoke is complemented well by the herbs.

Grilled calamari ($11.95) came as we’ve never had it before, tender, breaded and then grilled for a nice change of pace. Spiedino alla Romano ($14.95) is toasted bread with prosciutto and homemade mozzarella dipped in egg batter and topped with a delicious anchovy caper sauce we just couldn’t get enough of.

For our pasta dish, we tried Linguini Macchiati ($21.95) with clams and shrimp, sautéed in garlic oil with touch of tomato excellent. Joe doesn’t skimp on the seafood – clams are plump, shrimp are fresh, and the sauce is light and delicate but tasty.
Grilled dishes rarely come with anything more complicated than some herbs, garlic and oil, and that is what makes them great. Pollo Arosto ($20.95) is half of a juicy chicken, boned and grilled with fresh rosemary and garlic served with mashed potatoes and spinach. A pork special, a chop topped with spinach and gorgonzola ($25), was a standout dish, tender with flavors that meshed together well to bring out the taste of the meat. The monkfish special ($28) is unique and juicy.

Even dessert is a hit. The group at La Spada makes their own cheesecakes and tartufo, but we went for the homemade cannoli ($8). There’s a hint of cinnamon in the cream, making for a refreshing change. Napoleons ($8) are made with a light, whipped cream, not a custard-like heavy pudding, and is not too sweet.

This month La Spada is introducing a Sunday “family friendly” menu with traditional staples like manicotti, meatballs and the like, and there is live music on Thursdays and lobster specials on Wednesdays. We’ll probably be back for all three – and then some.

La Spada Cucina Italiana
315 Walt Whitman Rd
Huntington Station
631-549-3033
www.laspadarestaurant.com

Atmosphere: Classy but
comfortable fine dining

Cuisine: Italian

Price range: Moderate

Hours: Lunch Monday to
Friday, dinner seven nights a week

Main Menu