FOODIE

A Trip ’Round The World At Prime
By Luann & Lou / foodie@longislandernews.com

Driving north on New York Avenue, finally emerging among the narrow road is Prime – a diner’s haven of sumptuous food, spectacular views and a SOMETHING. A recent visit had us feeling like we took a culinary trip around the world with wines and food from every corner – and boy, were we flying first class.

Jazzy music beckons one up the stairs, through the tall glass doors donning the frosted “P” emblem. Ahead, a quiet Huntington Harbor quietly ripples at the restaurant’s edge. Opening in November of 2006, Prime is the third restaurant from the Bohlsen family that brought Long Island Tellers Chophouse in Islip and H2O Seafood Grill in Smithtown. Having been to both, we wondered where Prime would fall, and discovered that it is a hybrid of the two, and quite possibly the best of the three.

Prime sparkles on all fronts. With an interior that feels like a boathouse turned top restaurant, ivory curtains and shades of white adorn the dining room. Lights point upward, softly illuminating the room. On the other side, a lounge area with a roaring fire, tables and couches welcomes patrons enjoying a drink, small plates or sushi. A look outside reveals the outdoor patio, dusted with snow on this visit, but that comes to life in the warmth of summer sunsets. A wavy bar is the center of the restaurant, across from an open kitchen, the source of Executive Chef Gregg Lauletta’s magic.

Lauletta, a Long Island native, joined Prime in early 2008 from the Fireman Hospitality Group where he was corporate chef. His resume is meaty, and includes stints at such Manhattan notables as Olives Restaurant, The Ritz-Carlton’s Atelier and Gotham Bar & Grill. At Prime, he works wonders on every dish he touches, working off a menu that covers everything from seafood to steak and all that is in between.

The staff at Prime is as refined as the setting. On hand the evening of our visit was sommelier Paulo Villela. Pairing each of our courses with different wines from around the world, his impeccable taste all the more enhanced an exceptional evening.

Each dish that came out was better than the next. We started with a taste of the Far East – sushi is fresh, rolled to perfection. The Star Roll ($13) comes with salmon, mango, avocado and is topped with crunchy tempura flakes. The Red Roof ($15) was a favorite, with shrimp and avocado, topped with spicy tuna, spicy mayo and eel sauce drizzled over it. Paulo paired the dish with a 2007 German Riesling (Maria Schneider “Jazz”) – a sweet complement to the spicy sushi.

Next up was a seasonal favorite, butternut squash soup ($10). First served is a bowl with only roasted chestnuts and wild rice; the soup is poured piping hot in front of your eyes. With a hint of nutmeg, the soup goes down thinner than it looks, softening the nuts and warming us to the core despite the snow flurries outside.

A pair of salads followed. For the two of us fig fans, the Fig Salad ($13) was a delight. Warm figs wrapped in pancetta come on a skewer, a play on salty and sweet, served over mesclun greens with fig jam, gorgonzola and a balsamic vinaigrette. Beet Salad ($10) is a unique mix of red and yellow beets with walnuts and fresh goat cheese that is plentiful but does not overwhelm. This time around, Paulo presented a light 2007 Grecian white wine (Emery Rhodes Athiri).

Plates from the sea were fresh and prepared with care. Sea scallops ($15) are among the best we have had on the Island, and we’ve tried a lot of sea scallops. Pan-seared, the soft fleshy texture is cooked just the right amount, and bacon on top brings out the delicately mild sweet flavor of the scallop. Served with light semolina dumplings with port reduction, the scallops sit on a sautéed onion puree.

Red snapper ($27) is pan-seared and crisp over a basmati rice patty that is crisp but still light, and topped with a distinctive tomato-ginger chutney and orange oil, offering a hint of citrus. Paulo paired these dishes with a 2007 sauvignon blanc from Washington state (Mercer, Columbia Valley).

A unique take on potato gnocchi ($10), pan-seared in a parmesan-white truffle sauce, is refreshingly light, and not as heavy and weighty as some we’ve tried. In a cheesy and creamy sauce, the dish was paired with a pinot noir from Patagonia, Argentina (Jelu 2006).

Then it was time to bring on the beef, paired with a Spanish wine from La Tierra de Castilla (Tempranillo, Pago Florentino). Beef Wellington ($36) is a filet mignon with mushroom duxelles encased in a puff pastry on Brie fondue. The filet is tender and velvety. Veal chop “parmesan” ($46) was the “pièce de résistance” of the evening. The tender, light meat is juicy and topped with paremesan and panko breadcrumbs, broiled to a light crisp. Though the cheese easily could have dominated the dish, it didn’t at Chef Gregg’s hand.

Desserts did not disappoint. Sweet cream-filled crepes ($12) topped with candied walnuts and warm berry compote with whole berries with honey pecan granola is a heavenly end. The chocolate bomb ($12) is a ball of chocolate mousse with raspberry coulis and sour cream ice cream, just cold enough that it doesn’t melt. Paulo brought out the Kopke 20 year Tawny Port to finish a marvelous evening at this prime Huntington hot spot.

Prime
117 New York Avenue Huntington
631-385-1515
www.restaurantprime.com

Atmosphere: Sophisticated nautical
with a view of the harbor

Cuisine: New American

Price Range: Expensive

Hours: Lunch Wed-Sat 11:30-3;
Dinner Mon-Thurs 5-10,
Fri-Sat 5-11, Sun 4:30-9;
Brunch Sun 11:30-3

Main Menu