Taxis: Earning Its
Fare In Comfort Food
By Luann & Jennifer
When I saw the Suicide Wings on Taxis Grille menu at
217 New York Ave. in Huntington, your humble Foodie correspondent,
who also happens to be a glutton for punishment, couldnt
resist diving in headfirst.
For television buffs around the world, its a no-brainer
that the theme song to the legendary series M*A*S*H
told us for 11 years how Suicide is Painless.
When it comes to Taxis Suicide Wings, I concur. Aside
from tingling taste buds and a brief outburst of facial perspiration
about five minutes after the first bite, to be exact
the zesty, spicy sauce and the certified organic chicken
wings make for a delicious, exciting combination.
How do they do it? Manager Todd November, whos run the
new store since it opened two months ago, enlisted a close
friend, an attorney in Syosset, who he describes as an
aficionado of hot sauce to give him some leads toward
creating a barbecue wing for their hardiest devotees. After
a bit of tinkering and experimenting, November and his friend
created the sauce used for the hottest wings on the menu.
The wings are very, very spicy dont get me wrong.
But, its not an oppressive, painful, make-it-a-three-Kleenex
lunch as hot as you might have experienced with other super
powered wings. Either way, it will clear your sinuses in a
hot hurry it is approaching cold season, after all,
and I was breathing better after I finished my last suicide
If your taste buds cant handle the suicide wings, there
are milder, yet uniquely tasty, choices to peruse on the wings
front. For traditional hot wings, youve got mild, medium
and hot. For barbecue devotees, theres regular, honey
and spicy BBQ. Or, you can go your own way and pick teriyaki,
Chesapeake Bay, Cajun, honey mustard or buffalo garlic. Wings
start at $4.99 for a half-dozen and max out at $57.95 for
a 10-dozen party platter. Chicken fingers ($6.95) and boneless
chicken wings with the sauce of your choice ($7.95) are also
tantalizing options to play with.
I went with teriyaki for my second half-dozen, and they do
not disappoint, bringing the flavors of the East to buffalo
wings a notion, as a full-throated teriyaki junkie,
I can whole-heartedly endorse. November suggests teriyaki
mixed with a splash of suicide sauce, noting the combination
of spicy and sweet work especially well with taste buds.
With all of this talk about hot wings, lets not forget
some other all-American options. Taxis offers 15 flavors
of Martinos Italian Ices ($2.25 small; $2.75 large),
hamburgers starting at $4.25 and hot dogs starting at $2.
The deluxe Taxi Burger, with bacon, lettuce, tomato, crisp
pickles and Land OLakes American cheese ($5.75) is cooked
to order and is one of the highlights of the menu. Be sure
to give the frings ($3.99), a combination platter of hand-cut
and generously seasoned French fries and crisp, savory onion
rings a look, as well.
With football season in full swing, whether it is college
or professional, a visit to Taxis would be very well
worth your while to stock up on the game day essentials. Besides
the wings, November, a Philadelphia resident in the 1970s
and early 1980s, is a self-described cheese steak fanatic
who learned the craft from one of Phillys masters cheese
steak artisans. Indeed, owner Peter Ambrosio got the idea
for Taxis during a visit to Villanova in Pennsylvania.
After a 3 a.m. run to Pats Steaks in Philly, he decided
Huntington could use a similar eatery, November said.
On the cheese steak front, youve got your choice between
steak on a hero ($7.25), the mozzarella, provolone, American,
Swiss and mozzarella and tomato sauce cheese steaks, or the
original Philly classic the Cheese Whiz
steak ($7.99 each).
A kids menu, with kid-friendly portions, peanut butter
and jelly and hot dogs is soon to come if it hasnt already
been posted by the time you read this. Theres no delivery
service yet, but keep your ears open and phone ahead for take-out
orders. There are lunch specials on the burgers, hot dogs
and chicken fingers, a point to consider if youre on
a quest for comfort food on a tight budget.
The key, November said, is wholesome ingredients and food
thats made fresh to order and attention to detail to
leave customers with a satisfied feeling.
You feel good after you eat it, he said.
217 New York Avenue
Cuisine: Comfort food
Atmosphere: Classic neighborhood burger shop
Hours: Monday Friday,
11 a.m. 9 p.m.;
Saturday and Sunday,
11 a.m. 11 p.m.